Thursday, April 18, 2024

LeDomduVin: Château Lafont Menaut Pessac-Léognan 2021




Château Lafont Menaut Pessac-Léognan 2021

I recently bought this lovely Pessac-Léognan from my local supermarket to try out a 2021 Bordeaux within a 15-20 Euro price range.

What a pleasant surprise! Kudos to Philibert Perrin, the chateau's owner, and his team.

Chateau Lafont Menaut is located about 5 km south of Chateau Carbonnieux, the Perrin family's most renowned property.

The land, acquired by the Perrin family in 1990, was once covered with trees. So, they embarked on a deforestation program and stumbled upon an old, abandoned washhouse, the Menaut fountain, which became the origin of the Château's name.

Philibert gradually took over and started planting vines in 1993. The vineyards now consist of 17 hectares of red grape varieties (50 % Cab Sauv, 45 % Merlot, and 5 % Cab Franc) and 4 hectares of white (100% Sauvignon Blanc). Until 2000, Philibert made the wine at his brother Eric’s property, Chateau Haut-Vigneau.

In 2000, Philibert started the construction of the operating buildings: a vat room, barrel cellars, and living quarters. Construction ended in 2017 with the addition of a wine center and a tasting room. The final blend usually reflects the percentage of the planted grape varieties. Aging lasts about 12 months in French oak barrels, of which 30% are new.

So, why “a very pleasant surprise”? 

Well, ending a trilogy of great vintages (2018, 2019, and 2020), 2021 was a challenging vintage in Bordeaux, as producers had to battle frost, millerandage, and mildew. Chateau Lafont Menaut lost half of its production that year.

However, some very good wines were made with careful viticulture, hard work, and decisions and actions at crucial moments. Lafont Menaut is a very good example.

Chateau Lafont Menaut 2021
Intense, opaque, and deep color. Ripe dark cherry and red fruit aromas on the nose, with earthy, spicy, oaky notes and slightly smoky nuances. Tight, dark, and ripe, right after opening, after a few minutes and swirls in the glass, the palate offered a more gentle profile: round, fleshy, firm, yet fresh and juicy, with earthy and smoky notes. Nicely done!

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin @chateaulafontmenaut #lafontmenaut #wine #vin #vino #wein #pessacleognan #bordeaux #redwine #tasting #tastingnotes

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Wednesday, April 17, 2024

LeDomduVin: Krug, Jean-Noel Gagnard and Mouton-Rothschild




Krug, Jean-Noel Gagnard and Mouton-Rothschild 



Nice line-up yesterday. Opened for a private lunch on a yacht.

Krug Grande Cuvée 170ème Édition NV

Probably one of the best entry-level cuvées, Krug "Grande Cuvée" is a delicious classic champagne that never disappoints. Sophisticated, rich, balanced, and harmonious, it embodies refinement and elegance, no matter the edition number. A classic in my book. Love it.


Jean-Noel Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet 2018

I have opened countless bottles of this wine in the last two years (see previous posts), and I love it so much that I could not resist pouring it again for this lunch.

An attractive robe of pale-yellow gold with silver reflects. The nose blossoms with aromas of white flowers, yellow stone fruits, pear, and apple, refreshing mineral nuances, and hints of butterscotch and spice. The palate is fresh, mineral, smooth, dense, powerful, ample, generous, and luscious, yet so elegant and graceful. The long, mouth-watering, mineral finish calls immediately for another glass. Loooooove it.


Château Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac 2014

I was initially skeptical due to the lesser quality of the vintage and the result of previous experiences where the wine was closed and tight. 2014 Bordeaux usually presents green, unintegrated tannins, unripe fruits, high acidity, and some angularities to my palate. Yet, having recently tasted a few good Bordeaux 2014, which are now opening and taste much better than a few years ago, I decided to chance my luck for this lunch.

It was a gamble, but despite being tight and closed initially, the wine showed rather well after about 2 hours of opening (no decanting). Despite the tannins being a bit rustic and not completely integrated, the overall profile of the wine was quite nice and relatively fresh due to its high acidity. Aromas of red cherry and berry fruits mingled with earthy, spicy notes and oaky nuances. Somewhat angular, it still offered a soft and silky texture with a subtle minerality, leading to a full and persistent finish with beautiful freshness. It might get even better with time.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom


@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin @krugchampagne #krug @domaine_jeannoel_gagnard #jeannoelgagnard @chateaumoutonrothschild_ #moutonrothschild



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LeDomduVin: Tentenublo Escondite del Ardacho "El Abundillano" Single Vineyard Rioja DOCa Spain 2019



Tentenublo Escondite del Ardacho "El Abundillano" Single Vineyard Rioja DOCa Spain 2019



The other day, I returned to Bayfare Social in Rosewood (HK) to serve the wines for a private dinner.

Bayfare Social is a Spanish restaurant with a relaxed, cozy atmosphere and a convivial vibe. I love their food, inspired by classic Spanish tapas and pinchos dishes.




After finishing my job for the night, I treated myself to a well-deserved dinner at the bar counter since I didn't have the chance to eat earlier.

I went for two of my favorites on their menu: the "Calamares a la Andaluza" (fried squid, parsley, and Aioli) and the "Hovos Rotos" (Iberico Ham, fried potato, Spanish egg, and Aioli). 

I wanted a glass of Rioja wine to accompany these dishes, so I asked for the "Artadi" they usually offer by the glass. Yet, they were out of it, so I asked the bartender if he had another Rioja by the glass, and he generously poured me a glass of this Rioja I had never heard of before. It was a pleasant surprise, as the wine tasted great and paired well with the food. 
 



Tentenublo Escondite del Ardacho "El Abundillano" Single Vineyard Rioja DOCa Spain 2019


As an “old school” Sommelier and a Rioja wine lover for 30 years, I usually like my Rioja made with a majority of Tempranillo. Yet, I’m always eager to taste and learn about wine I have never tried before.

This Rioja is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Tempranillo, and 10% Malvasia. The color is intense, dark, and opaque. The nose displays incentive aromas of ripe black cherry mingling with licorice, mocha, and earthy notes. The palate is generous, complex, ample, coating, structured, juicy, and well balanced by good acidity between the ripeness of the fruit, the tannins, and the 15.5% alcohol. It offers plenty of texture and chewiness while remaining fresh, with a lovely mineral and saline touch in the long finish. Loved it.

Tiny production: 1300 bottles or less.

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom


@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein @robertentenublo #tentenublo #robertoolivan #esconditedelardacho #elabundillano #singlevineyard #rioja #spain #redwine #tempranillo #tasting #tastingnotes @bayfaresocial #bayfaresocial #spanishfood 



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Tuesday, April 16, 2024

LeDomduVin: Chateau Latour Pauillac 2015




Château Latour Pauillac 2015


I recently opened a few bottles of this particular wine for 2 different dinners, and it showed wonderfully after about 2 hours of decanting. Still young, with some present yet integrated tannins that will need a bit more time to mellow down. Beyond its attractive aromas of red and dark cherries and berries mixed with notes of licorice, coffee, and leather mingling with earthy and oaky nuances, it boasts an impressive complexity, structure, and texture. The palate is rich, opulent, and layered, expanding nicely till the lingering finish. Although really approachable now, it deserves a few more years of cellaring to fully express itself and its full potential. Looooooooooove it.

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein @_chateaulatour #chateaulatour #latour #pauillac #bordeaux  #greatwine #redwine #tasting #tastingnotes #sommelier #sommlife #sommelierlife #ilovemyjob #wineyearly #lovewine


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Thursday, March 14, 2024

LeDomduVin: Portrait




LeDomduVin: Portrait



With Time comes Confidence
With Age comes Wisdom
The unavoidable passing of Time
How to get old while being young at heart

Dom


@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #portrait #quote #gettingold #youngatheart #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife #winelover #winepassion #wineinlife #lifeinwine #wine #vin #vino #wein #dominiquenoel




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Wednesday, March 13, 2024

Ledomduvin: Domaine Bizot Echezeaux Grand Cru 2014





Domaine Bizot Echezeaux Grand Cru 2014



This "OVNI" (Objet Vineux Non Identifié) is a "UNICORN" in the world of Burgundy Grand Cru. 

One can only feel privileged to be in the presence of such a rare bottle.

One of the smallest Domaines in Burgundy, Domaine Bizot is highly sought-after by connoisseurs and collectors. It spans only 3.5 hectares, with 2.5 hectares of vines planted in the village of Vosne-Romanée and 1 hectare located further north around Marsannay. Due to its size and rarity, it is often considered a unicorn among wine enthusiasts.

The Domaine has achieved "cult" status due to its tiny production. All its appellations combined rarely exceed 10,000 bottles in a regular vintage. Lesser vintages, such as 2010 and 2012, saw the total production fall to only 5,000 bottles.

Jean-Yves Bizot produces a very limited amount of his Echezeaux, only five barrels or less than 1500 bottles, making it a true unicorn and incredibly difficult to access.

It is his only “Grand Cru". His other wines are made from other appellations, such as Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru and Village, Marsannay, Bourgogne Blanc, and Rouge.

Since his first vintage in 1995, he has adopted a minimalist approach to winemaking for all his wines. This includes organic vineyard management methods, whole cluster vinification, fermenting in wooden vats at low temperatures, using little or no sulfur during vinification and “élevage,” and aging in 100% new oak barrels.

Meticulously hand-bottled, barrel by barrel, without filtration, Bizot's wines require long aging to reach their full potential and reward those with the patience to wait for them. 

Finding a bottle of Bizot's Echezeaux is already a quest in itself. And as if this was not hard enough, all this goodness, charm, subtlety, elegance, and complexity come at a higher price than its DRC counterpart.

I often refer to myself as one of the luckiest sommeliers in the world, and getting my hands on one of these most coveted bottles proves it once again. 

However, this bottle was a gift from a guest to the dinner host, and they decided not to open it. Therefore, I could not taste it. Nevertheless, I hope to get a chance to taste it someday.

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #domainebizot @jeanyvesbizot #jeanyvesbizot #echezeaux #grandcru #burgundy #ovni #unicorn #rarewine #rarebottle #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife 



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Tuesday, March 12, 2024

LeDomduVin: Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1978





Someone said Lafite Rothschild 1978?



The other day, I served wine in one of @thelegacyhousehk's luxury private dining rooms.

The pantry had two doors: one leading to the room where I was serving wine and a second to another private room.

The second door opened while I was in the pantry, and I could see people arriving for dinner in the other room.

The host put a bag on the dining room island and took out these six bottles.

Even if I had nothing to do with this party and was not even going to serve the wine for them (I mean, I do not work there; I just came to serve wine for a private dinner), I was intrigued when I saw the labels and could not help myself uttering in an admirative voice, "You've brought some great wines!"

As he looked at me and glanced at the golden grape pin on my jacket, I asked the host if I could enter his room to examine the bottles more closely and even take a picture of them.

He agreed and even told me that I could taste the wine. I said I would love to and thanked him profusely.

I thought from afar that they were different. Yet, they were all 1978 vintage.

The house Sommelier opened the bottles and later brought me a glass, telling me he found some bottle variations.

Although the 1978 vintage was good overall, especially compared to the rest of the 1970s, bottle variations are unsurprising, in my opinion, as these bottles seem to have different provenance, and most 1978 Bordeaux (in general) started to fade and slowly lose their fruit two decades ago already.





Chateau Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 1978

The wine displayed a dull, cloudy, light brownish color. On the nose, it boasted autumnal tertiary aromas of leather, tobacco, coffee, underbrush, and pencil shavings, mingling with earthy and light oaky nuances. The palate was still alive and kicking, relatively consistent, with good fruit and acidity and a reasonably long finish. Surprisingly, it was still pretty good. Old but not finished.


Cheers! Santé!

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein @chateaulafiterothschild #lafiterothschild #grandcruclasse #pauillac #bordeaux #oldandrare #oldandrarewine #oldandrarevintage #oldandrarebottle #sommelier #sommelierlife #sommlife




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Monday, March 11, 2024

LeDomduVin: Tasting Argentinian wines at Bouillon HK




Tasting Argentinian wines at Bouillon HK



Last Friday, I was invited to taste some Argentinian wines at @bouillon.hk and some Ecuadorian chocolate. 




Cristina Carranco (@hkrunaway), the wife of Johan Ducroquet (founder and owner of restaurants @bouillon.hk and @racines.hk), invited me and a few others from the wine trade to discover 10 wines that are not yet in the HK market. 




The wines were served over a delightful "charcuterie plate" (more like a "foie gras" plate 😉) and a rich chocolate fondant/cake. Yummy! 






We tasted the wines from 
@winesmarguerite 
@eurekawines
@visavis.ok 














and the chocolate from @arariwa.ec 




It was a lovely tasting with some interesting wines looking for an importer/supplier to reach the HK market. 

If interested, please contact Cristina directly. 




Above picture of the front of "Bouillon HK" edited by and for @ledomduvin 2024, original photo by Aude Camus (courtesy of https://www.hongkongmadame.com/en/Bouillon-Bistro-Parisien_a2224.html)




It was also an excellent occasion to catch up with Cristina and chat with one of her friends and a few friends from some HK wine suppliers: @rolls64 @aiolos.to #charlessoulisseplou and a few others. 

Thank you for the invite, Cristina. It was nice to see you and meet your husband and the team at Bouillon. It was a fun experience. 

Cheers! Santé! 

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein #tasting #argentina #argentinianwine #ecuador #ecuadorchocolate #margueritewines #eurekawines #visaviswines #arariwa


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Thursday, March 7, 2024

LeDomduVin: Chateau Bertinerie Des-Lyres de Bertinerie Rosé 2020 "Special Vaccin"





Chateau Bertinerie Des-Lyres de Bertinerie Rosé 2020 "Special Vaccin"



Love this label 😉😁🤣🤣🤣

First, it is fun and unconventional, a delight for the reader, and the producer must have had a blast creating it.

Second, "Des-Lyres" is a play-on-words that combines the French term “Lyres” (for "Lyra" - a type of vine training system) with the word “Délire” (for "Delirium” used in a more light-hearted and humorous sense, like "having fun”).

Third, it has been labeled “Anti-Vaccin” (for “Anti-Vaccine”) as it is 2020 vintage, the year the entire world stopped due to the COVID-19 pandemic. And thus, this wine was specifically crafted to be used as an anti-aging, anti-dote, anti-stress, anti-virus, anti-body (anti-corps), anti-morosity (anti-morosité), anti-depressant (anti-dépresseur), which I find inspiring, smart, witty, and funny. Well done by the Bantagnies family.

The Vignoble Bertinerie has been owned and operated by the same family for five generations. Today, it is managed by Eric and Frantz Bantagnies. The vineyard is under sustainable agriculture and is certified High Environmental Value (HVE). It is the largest vineyard in France under the "Lyre" vine training system, which produces fuller and smoother wines.

This Rosé comes from the young vines in the “Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux” AOC but has been voluntarily declared VDF (Vin de France). A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot (for 2020), it is vinified like a Provence, meaning from direct pressing.

The color is usually tinted with an elegant pale pink. The nose is ordinarily fresh and lively with stone fruit aromas. The palate usually displays beautiful minerality, chewable texture, good intensity, and length.

This bottle of wine was brought from France by my friends (Gaby & Loulou) who supply wine and know the Chateau Bertinerie family. Unfortunately, it did not travel well to Hong Kong and tasted old and oxidized. The unusual golden-orange color in the picture says it all. It's a 2020 rosé, only four years old, but not all rosés are meant to age or travel well. 😉

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #wine #vin #vino #wein @chateau_bertinerie #chateaubertinerie #deslyres #deslyresrose #rose #winelabel #greatlabel




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LeDomduVin: Jacques Selosse V.O "Version Originale" Blanc-de-Blancs Grand Cru Champagne Extra Brut




Jacques Selosse V.O "Version Originale" Blanc-de-Blancs Grand Cru Champagne Extra Brut


I always feel very humble when opening a bottle of Jacques Selosse's “Version Originale.”

First, it is rare, as only 3600 bottles are produced annually worldwide. Second, it is such an excellent champagne that you must experience it at least once to fully understand why.

Understandably, it is very sought-after and hard to find as the allocations per buyer are small, just a few bottles, and only if you can get them. I have been fortunate to be able to source, buy, open, taste, and serve quite a few these past three years.

For those who may not know, V.O. is a cuvée "Blanc de Blancs," thus 100% Chardonnay grapes, harvested from Grand Cru vineyards planted on slopes around the villages of Avize, Cramant, and Oger.

The blend combines three consecutive vintages, made with the current vintage and blended with "reserve" wines from the previous two vintages. This blending method enables consistency in taste, highlights the original character of the wine, and reduces the impact of variable climatic conditions.
 
The resulting wine is then aged 6-7 years on lees and dosed as an "Extra Brut" (between 0 & 1.3 g/l depending on the vintage), which contributes to preserving the Champagne's natural character, freshness, and harmony and allows to reveal the intrinsic quality and minerality of the various terroirs.

For example, this bottle was disgorged in 2019, meaning the blend is made of the 2012 or 2013 vintage, blended with some 2010 and 2011 reserve wines.

Unlike Jacques Selosse's "Lieux Dits" Collection, undoubtedly the purest expressions of the 6 top vineyard sites they work with, V.O. may not reveal as perfectly and precisely the real identity of the terroirs it comes from. Yet, it still delivers charm, character, intensity, complexity, and concentration with finesse, elegance, and beautiful minerality.

Let it rest 2 or 3 years in your cellar to experience its full potential. It is recommended to serve it at 12°C. Decant it, if necessary.  

Cheers! Santé!

Dom

@ledomduvin #ledomduvin #vin #wine #vino #wein #champagne @domainejacquesselosse #jacqueselosse #blancdeblancs #extrabrut #rarechampagne #sommelier #sommlife #sommelierlife


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