mcarleno

Since I received my World War II Military Aircraft book (author eludes me currently) at 5 years of age. WWII fighters have completely engaged my aircraft interest. One of the best fighters of the war (specifically under 20,000') was the Yak-3. Near the end of the war, FW190s and Bf109s where instructed not to engage any Yak without an oil cooler (quick reference as 1s and most specifically 9s had these) below that altitude.

I built my first kit Yak when I was 14. It was a profile Yak-9 C/L running an even older K&B 32 green head.

I have been amazed with the significant historical and militarily important contribution of aircraft of the VVS that these planes aren't available more as kits. I started looking for a new project for this winter and wanted to do a war bird. I thought -- P-51 -- everyone other war bird. Could do something cool and not common at the field like a P-40. But I had several engines that were 40s and not many small kits in this size. Then I came across a Yak-3 right here on RC Universe. My new Christmas present was chosen.

I just started in on this project a couple of days ago, though I have been trying to research the limited VVS information (when compared to say P-51 or FW190) to choose a color scheme for about a month.

WOW is this a great kit (by Redstarrc.com). Laser cut, interlocking, very light -- 2.5 hours in and the stabilizers are done, the rear control surface, the fuselage formers, side doublers, tail block, fire-wall, motor mounts and stringers.

Decided Red 12 -- Is the one.

I will try to post some pictures as I build.


Funny -- My Son is 6 and over the weekend he had a friend over. We were in the garage when Matt (my Son) said to his friend Zak, "I got my AMA card and my dad is going to teach me to fly." Zak looked a little puzzled and said, "How are you going to do that without any wings?" Matt responded pointing at my planes hanging on the wall, "No silly, on my Dad's models!" Zak paused and then looked at the planes and then a Matt --- "I think your to big to ride on those".

Good building!

Marc

mcarleno

I don't think I was clear after reading my post. This kit is by "Red Star RC" which can be found at http://www.redstarrc.com. I think these guys deserve a look if your interested in a 40 size war bird.

Marc

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

The MIG -3 is going to be my next scratch build {plans} but I have gone on to larger planes. I went to the site you posted but I noticed that there photos were of the YAK 9?? I think. If you go into A book store look for FIGHTER by Bill Gunston. It has A great photo of of A squadron of them on the tarmac in winter color. They were painted white with red on the top of the wings with red stars. The red wings were to help find downed pilots in the snow. I have another great book with one in it too. The book is for scale and the photos are pull out with lines going to areas of the plane and telling what all the parts are. Great looking plane. We had one at our giant scale event with A 100 inch wing. The plane out flew the pilot and got away from him and was destroyed but before that little problem it flew very well. They are very good stunt planes too, love that long nose way far away from the cockpit.

mcarleno

Gray,

Could possibly be a Yak-9U; however, the Yak-9 in almost all variants has an oil cooler under the nose. I also love the Mig-3 and there is far more information available on that aircraft especially if you are going to scratch build.

Mig-3 links:
http://www.ctrl-c.liu.se/misc/ram/mig-3.html
http://mig3.sovietwarplanes.com/mig3/mig3.html
http://www.airwar.ru/other/draw/mig3-2.html

Marc

mcarleno

I said I would try to upload some pictures. I haven't had time to work on it since my first post. But here is 2.5 hours of work.

The Yak-3 in construction and my messy workshop.

Marc

mcarleno

I think I am going to go with "Red 12" for the color scheme. Here are a couple of examples and a color test.

mihaj

Hi Marc,
That is a very good choice of color scheme.
And you are quick builder too.

Cheers
Mike

mcarleno

Well I have no time since my last post to get any work done. The kids went to be at 9:30 and of course it is no midnight but I got a couple of good hours in (About 5 now).

Made pretty good progress tonight. Fixed one error on my part. Decided to test fit the stabilizers and found that I should have use the vertical to align my tail block. -- Remember this!

No big deal, a strip of 1/4 x 3/8 -- epoxy w/micro balloons, filled in the gaps and sanded to fit. About a 15 minute set back -- not to bad.

Finished adding the skin to the fuse sides, sheeting doublers, sheeting formers, wing tab doubler, top stringer and top skin forming and I am calling it quits. I decided that instead of forming each of the three section separately and letting dry and then moving to the next, I would get a general form on all and then fit them back to front. This is doing about 5 steps at once, but the skin is 1/16th and I don't think this will cause any issues.

Here is the progress.

Marc

mcarleno

Here two more color schemes that arem't on the diagram in the manual. This one would also be cool. The other picture is of V Nosov, Hero of Soviet Union pilot of Red 12.

Marc

mcarleno

Another couple of hours today (about 4) and things are coming together nicely. Couple of mistakes - easily fixed. I trimmed the side skin to match the formers at the nose, but I had not added the 1/2!QUOT! bottom nose stringer yet. Well adding the stringers and sure enough, they have a different profile. No biggy, just added then, shimmed and new skin.

During the mounting of the engine, however, I marked and drilled for 6-32 bolts as the instructions indicated. I was getting ready to do the blind nuts and decided that I would actually use the engine to set the nuts and my engine won't take a 6-32. Decision time.

Even though the holes were already drilled (though not enlarged for blind nuts) I decided to mount 4-40 bolts and nuts instead.

Here is the body coming to shape and a close-up of the SK 50 that will power it. I have never used a SK and no-one in our club is running one. But man was it cheap! Looks pretty good to. ABC and ported with dual BB. Puts out 1.5hp at 12,500 RPM. A little lighter than a OS-AX46. About the same as a Tower 46 but it cost with shipping $54.00! I will give a it try and post after flights.

mcarleno

Here are a few more.

I did make a change during the skinning process. The skin that goes across the top of the nose needs to bend downward significantly more than from F1 to Firewall than from F2 former to F1. The planes just say windex, form, dry and glue. I found that there was not way to get the skin to hold on the stringers and top formers from F2-F1 and the same from F1-Firewall. So referencing the 3-View drawing it seems clear to adjust the skin from F1-Firewall.

Glued the top skin securing on F2 and F1 and along the side strings and top stringer leaving the skin from F1 to Firewall unglued. Then thin CA along the top string to the skin leaving sides unglued.

I then measured the same distance from the top stringer on F1 (Firewall side) and marked (about 1!QUOT!). Drop a #2 exacto through the skin and drew straight to the firewall to split skin.

Glued the center section of the top skin down to the Firewall. Took the side section and adjusted to the stringers and removed a narrow triangle from the original cut to the firewall to relieve the warping pressure on the skin. CA's down and CA'd the skin splice together. To help fill the gaps in the skin, thick CA (light coat) then sprinkle with Micro balloons, second light coat + MB. I think it came out OK.

ho2zoo

My Feedback: (5)

Nice posting Marc! I've been thinking about one of these myself. Quick question though: Does the engine have to be mounted inverted? Worried about reliability.

mcarleno

ho2zoo,

The kit has birch ply motor mounts that correctly give you 3 Degrees of right and down thrust. You could skip using these and re-inforce the firewall and use a standard motor mount but I think the profile of the kit would suffer because the engine would really stick out significantly.

The only issue I have ever heard about reliability with an inverted engine is storage as you don't want to store the aircraft with the head down after flight but other than that I think your good to go.

Marc

mcarleno

No building today. We went flying and it was my kids first time on the stick. We had been training on a G2 Real flight simulator. They did really good! Both my 6 and 10 year olds!

But after they finished, we switched the wing on the Kadet (18 years old) to the symetrical and my brother took a turn with Dad on the instructor's side. A couple of turns then upside down, Dad took over and proceeded to kamakazee the plane about a foot deep into the alfafa field! This one only had 4 flights on it since I rebuilt it about a month ago after the original Futaba reciever (also 18 years old) failed during the summer.

No reparing this one. So it becomes another dead solder on my son's wall. Here is what's left.

Marc

mcarleno

Question?

I am starting to plan on finishing. I'm thinking about glassing the body with 3/4oz and Poly-C. I though I would to the wings and control surfaces in Koverall and dope. I would like to add some detail such as panel lines, rivets and hatches. I will build the wing out and determine if I will sheet them entirely or just use the cap strips. This thing is so light right now I just don't want to add 2 pounds during finishing.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Marc

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I sure missed the boat, you were talking YAK and I was thinking MIG, must have been A senior moment or something. Been following the build and from what I can tell it looks like they used some very good wood for the kit.. Are you just A fast builder or does this kit go together that easy. I too would like A report on the kS engine. For my cheap engines I went to the MDS with very mixed results, keep us informed.

mcarleno

This is the best quality kit I have ever built. All of the wood is straight, clean and very light. The laser cuts where really good even on the hard wook and ply. I am a pretty fast builder but I built a Super Sportster 60 last year from Great Planes. About the same size but more wing and about 3 extra pounds. I took at least 4 times as long to get to this point.

Every thing in this kit inter-locks, I mean everything. The only things that I have had to pay real attention to was keeping formers at 90 and making sure that I didn't glue my fingers to the wood. Every thing has fit so tight I have only had to resort to the thick CA a couple of times and there is only 4 or 5 epoxy joints where you would expect.

I am so impressed with this plane and have been following Red Star's LaGG-3 project that I know next years Chrismas will probably bring another one of Russia's greatest under the tree.

That is one of the reasons that I decided I would take all of this time to do this thread and detail everything.

Here is their link if you interested.

http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...887&PN=1&TPN=1

Good building

Marc

mcarleno

I'm travelling this week to sunny Bismarck ND. Actually doesn't look bad for this time of year (-15 to 25). Not quite as warm as good ole Phoenix!

I did manage to get about 90 minutes in tonight. Added the nose sections. It needs a little more forming but looks pretty good. I think I will work on graphics for the nose art this week and get them scaled out.

Marc

Raghfrost

awsome build marc! keep the pics coming.. wateva finish u wanna do i cant wait to see the end result ..

justa question. how do u do pannel lines and riveting details on a model plane

mcarleno

I am going to use some techniques that I have found by surfing. I will post some links on some of the things that I have found. Basically for finishing.

3/4 Oz Glass cloth over a completely smooth and otherwise finished plane. Apply with 3 lite coats of water based Urethane sanding in between. Weave should just be visible.

Primer/Filler -- Automotive type to fill low spots and weave completely. Sand almost all of this off. Your ready for details.

Panel Lines: for a model this size most will be 1/16th with a few being a little larger.

1 Mark all panel lines in pencil.

2 Apply 1/16th chart tape (you can get this at Staples or office supplies in presentation section). Chart tape is removable unlike pinstripe.

3 Then apply filler spray (automotive -- usually yellow) This is heavy stuff so keep it light and just a 1/2!QUOT! or so on each side of the panel lines (these are butt panels not over lap. Over lap same but us masking tape on the under side panel).

4 With fine paper sand all panel lines flaring the filler out until chart tape is exposed.

5 Peel the tape of and --- Panel Line.

Mushroom rivets:
2/5th Alphatic Resin
2/5th Titebond (white glue)
1/5th Water

1 Mark all rivets with pencil.

2 Small wire/tooth pick/ or syringe apply small dots of glue and allow to dry.

3 Rivets can be lightly sanded but don't take to much off.

Counter set rivets:
You need a soldering iron.

1 With small brass tube either connected to heat head, or put tube on iron head and wire to head by wrapping strands of copper (pull from a stranded wire) burn round rivets where they belong.

2 When finishing them you will want to make sure your not to heavy on the paint.

Hatches:

To make hatches, use HAVC tape. This is the aluminized very sticky tape they use on duct systems. It is cheap and available at Home Depot/Lowes/Ace ...

1 Mark tape for the size of your template.

2 Cut out template and stick on. Pretty easy.

Lights (none working), External gage covers -- These things you can get from Micheals or other craft stores. Use things like googly eyes for plastic covers, miniture christmas bulbs, sequin.

Now having said all of this, if you are covering with a film. Then put all of your film down and markings. Use a tool from Topflite called a panel line template. Topflite also sells a panel line pen. It has various size circles, hatches, .... Spray the model after application with a fuel proofer (can be flat to dull your gloss colored film).

Raghfrost

thankyou so much mcarleno i really appreciate it.

mihaj

Hi,

Thanks a bunch Marc. This is great to have second opinion. I'm sure we all will benefit from this thread!!!

But, please, guys don't get carried away with the power. After you done building this model you'll see that it should be about ONE POUND lighter (depends on extra details and finishing) then typical .40 size model. Furthermore, having relatively thin wing this plane can be really fast. We have our prototype flying with OS 46FX with 11x7 and this engine is way more than enough. We even had to change the prop to 11x6 to slow her down a little bit.
Now, having electric conversion tested, I can say that something similar to OS .40LA will be appropriate power plant. (If you want to fly her close to scale instead of guiding a missile )

Thanks again.
We are watching your progress closely with anticipation!

Mike

mcarleno

Mike,

You and George have a winner here. This is definately a light aircraft for the size. Thanks for the heads up on power. I will be using a SK50 ABC. This is defininately more power than needed, but I will be using a 12x5 prop which should keep itslow and give it better verticle. I actually thought of using a 3-blade to make it look more scale, but I don't want to spend $20+ on an aluminum as I have yet to find a 2.75 3-blade nylon spinner.

Marc

mcarleno

Not going to get any building tone this week. I am in Bismarck ND -- way cold tonight (-10). A really bad day travelling. My inbound plan had to be deverted because someone on board had a heart attack. Hopefully he is OK, but it really messed my travel day up.

On the bright side, Sky Harbor Internation in Phoenix (where I left from) had a very cool display of scale model aircraft engines. There 33 of them including a 1/4 scale P&W R2800 14 cylinder 2 row that ran on gas.

This exibition runs until May 1 2005 in Terminal 3. Here is one of the engines posted on their web site.

mcarleno

Roughed out nose art (7.75" from tip to end) Will do on drafting board when I get home.

I think I am going to use Frisk Masking Film (here is a link http://www.arttalk.com/frisk/masking.htm) and airbrush with acrylics.

Marc