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May 22, 2024 |
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WF's Little Duos, today indie sherried young Aberlour
It is one of the few distilleries where we taste many more official releases than independent bottlings. A bit like Lagavulin, really. Yet we'll have two indies today…
(Classic print ad from the 1970s. All malts were using more or less the same angles.)
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Aberlour 12 yo 2012/2024 (48.2%, Signatory Vintage, Small Batch #9, 1st fill oloroso sherry butts) 
A relatively recent series, seemingly well-regarded across various quarters. Colour: amber gold. Nose: classic sherry, walnut cake, dark ale, and a hint of molasses, followed by a generous array of dates and toffee. very well-balanced, excellently constructed around the sherry profile. Mouth: quite spicy at the outset, with notable ginger, nutmeg, and grey pepper… the toffee then gracefully joins in, accompanied by a sweeter sherry (noticeably sweeter than the usual oloroso). One cannot help but think of A'bunadh, but here there is a touch more citrus, featuring blood oranges and a hint of Szechuan pepper. Finish: fairly long, with a persistent woody and chocolatey character. a subtle café-kirsch note lingers in the aftertaste, adding a pleasant complexity. Comments: a rather spicy and fairly modern interpretation of an Aberlour 'sherry'. Nothing to fault, it certainly does the job.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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Aberlour 11 yo 2011/2022 (55.9%, Blackadder, Raw Cask, PX sherry cask, cask #22, 290 bottles) 
Colour: dark gold. Nose: this expression is all about walnuts, mustard sauce, oxidation, Malaga, old figs, beef, and dried ham... It's pure sherry, which I greatly appreciate. Adding a few drops of water brings out a subtle earthy note. Think flowering plant soil, tobacco, leather, and a touch of umami... Mouth (neat): really quite Malaga! Raisins and mustard, a cascade of nuts (both old and fresh), and an abundance of PX. Then, it becomes much spicier with cardamom, nutmeg, pepper... It's quite forceful, almost aggressively so. With water: a slight vinegar touch, dried fruits, pickles, and a hint of cedarwood... Finish: long, rather taut, with a touch of vinegar again (balsamic), bitter chocolate, and clove... Plenty of PX lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: it's more complex than the 2012, but also a bit wild and even somewhat unruly. Very good, in any case.
SGP:461 - 84 points. |
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May 21, 2024 |
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Some Springbank to celebrate… well, Springbank
Still a top-five distillery in my book. Let's choose three or four of them from the stash…
(Staves in the yard, 2005, WF Archive) |
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Springbank 5 yo 2017/2023 '100° proof' (57.1%, OB, Society Bottling, fresh bourbon, 2166 bottles) 
One has fond memories of some very old Springbank 5-year-olds, the ones with black labels. Colour: white wine. Nose: oh the elegance of this distillate, even at an almost forbidden age. New tweed, virgin wool, lemon juice, paraffin, slag, basalt, and finally, strawberry candy. The latter should have disappeared after a few years, but at five, it remains. It's amusing. With water: more austere, with smoked tea, grape seed oil, plasticine, and quite a bit of charcoal. Mouth (neat): simply impeccable. Lemon, engine grease (not something we consume every day), various waxes, a drop of seawater, a bit of kiwi and rhubarb. Impeccable, truly. With water: softer, almost fruitier, with herbs and flowers—borage, pansies, nasturtiums. That's amusing too! Finish: rather long, truly fruity, it's almost moving when you know that this fruitiness will meld between, let's say, 5 and 10 years. Roughly speaking... Comments: it's a bit like a photo of an infant before he/she starts to really grow. A very beautiful photo, by the way.
SGP:652 - 88 points. |
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Springbank 24 yo 1999/2024 (54.5%, Decadent Drinks, Westie Sponge 3, first fill sherry butt) 
Probably the exact opposite to the awesome 5 yo. Colour: deep gold. Nose: right, it does start with a wee box of old matches, but those are the same matches you would find in any proper high-grade oloroso (or amontillado, or palo cortado). They would lead you to menthol and cough lozenges, citron liqueur, fresh moist black pipe tobacco, which in turn would lead to very old PX, VORS stuff and such, then cold cuts, goulash, crazy sausages, prunes and raisins, then the blackest potting soil and the craziest pudding. Or the other way 'round. With water: really something antique, it reminds me of those replica vintage cars, such as the Argentinian Bugattis 'Pur Sang' or those crazy Excaliburs from the 1980s. An old whisky made today. Chocolate, coffee, gravy, umami sauce. Mouth (neat): cream of Springbank. Root vegetables, thickest marmalade, truffle, chen-pi, a glutamatey side as well, Worcester sauce, some kind of sweeter balsamico, sloe liqueur… Is there really only one drink in my glass? With water: everything mingling together. I find dates particularly prominent. Finish: long, creamy, VORSy (what?). More gravy, liquorice, marmalade, dried figs this time… It became rounder and sweeter, while all matchsticks are gone, if I may say so. Which leads us to… drum roll… Christmas cake. Comments: huge personality, many asperities as we say, and something a little, but truly, decadent indeed. No Eurovision malt whisky, if you see what I mean (S., I'm sure they don't). And hurray for Spain! Quite a coup by the Sponge, while this series is slowly coming to an end. I'd bet the future will be even better (that'll be £10, Sponge).
SGP:662 - 93 points. |
Well, since we're not joking around, let's bring out the heavy artillery and steer clear of the more common (though very good) current productions… |
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Springbank 1977/1993 'GO-DD' (53.9%, OB, cask #332, 335 bottles)
An official private bottling of old, not too sure about what 'GO-DD' exactly means or meant, I doubt this was a bottling for the Vatican, was it? What's sure is that 1977 is a pretty rare vintage. Colour: white wine. Nose: as soon as you encounter a Springbank that's not overwhelmed by the cask, you realise the distillate hasn't changed much over the years. Essentially, it's oily, waxy, lemony, maritime, with hints of petrol and damp chalk. In short, it could just as well be a 2007/2023, and that is fascinating. With water: here comes the virgin wool, clay, grapefruit peel, seaweed, and oyster shells. Mouth (neat): splendid, tense, lemony, always with wax, salt, oysters, engine oil, and paraffin... With water: even saltier and waxier. Wasn't there a secret underground passage between old Clynelish/Brora and Springbank? Yes, of course, I do have the geographical layout of Scotland in mind, why do you ask? Finish: fairly long, oily, still on beeswax, salt, oysters, lemon, a touch of petrol... Eternal Springbank, really. It's fascinating, as our Canadian friends would say. Comments: same league as that of the Sponge, but in a diametrically opposite style. I admit, I did it on purpose.
SGP:563 - 93 points. |
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Springbank 28 yo 1966/1994 (55.6%, The Bottlers, cask #1018)
Another one that's ticking all the boxes. The Bottlers (#1 IB at MM when they were active), 1966 (think LB), plus the ideal age and the fact that a 1965 brother did extremely well a few years back here on WF. Colour: gold. Nose: I find it curiously resinous, but this should fade away… It is also extremely waxy, piney, you'd almost believe we're nosing some (lovely) Greek retsina. Really a lot of polish. The biggish resinous side is still there after fifteen minutes, unaltered. With water: old woods, fern, old stump, mosses, mushrooms… but there's also some wonderful nougat and old sweet wine. Not retsina. Mouth (neat): awesome waxes, orange cordials, and a side that really makes you think of some old Demerara rum that would have gone a little over the top. Was this Springer matured in the tropics? In the Scottish 'tropics', near Ullapool? I mean, do you know Inverewe Garden? With water: waxes, encaustic, menthol, old apples. Finish: rather long, more on apple peel. Comments: it might have been a bit tired when it was bottled, this doesn't resemble OBE at all. But it remains wonderful once you get past the woodiness. The old waxy notes are magnificent.
SGP:461 - 89 points. |
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Are independent whiskies becoming more expensive? |
Many good people mention price differences between official malts and those from independents, with variations in both directions depending on the distilleries' reputation. As the saying goes, Springbank is not Mannochmore. Now it's important to remember that distilleries theoretically do not need to buy the whiskies they offer (although many have done so for their very old, highly prestigious malts). Larger independents mostly, if not entirely, purchase white whiskies, which they then age in their own casks. Here, too, the price is not the same, even if this practice seems to become less common, unfortunately. |
| Smaller independents, however, must buy their casks ready for bottling, which is significantly more expensive. To summarise, if a kilo of barley costs the same whether it's Springbank or Mannochmore, a 25-year-old Springbank cask is definitely not priced the same, whether you are the distillery's owning company or the independents of The Jolly Good Old Bottlers from John O'Groats. On the other hand, these Jolly Good Old Bottlers might offer you excellent young Mannochmore at a very good price! But don't blame them if their new Springbank is priced very high. |
| We will have to see how a potential new whisky loch might affect this situation. Rumour has it that 2.5 to 3 times more Scotch whisky is currently being distilled than is being sold. So, in 25 years, there could be some great deals! In theory, that is, because if India and China start increasing their consumption – India already does - our hopes as consumers might be dashed. On the other hand, this would be rather good news for all our friends. |
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May 20, 2024 |
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Times are changing, with more and more distilleries now structuring their ranges around the world of wine, using more or less subtle finishings. Personally, I find it uninteresting from a both organoleptic and philosophical standpoint, but on the other hand, it can be fun and amusing. And we can clearly see that there are more and more enthusiasts of these styles... Perhaps they are right! It also seems that we are moving from renowned appellations (for example, Pomerol) to broad regions (Bordeaux) or even grape varietals (for example, Merlot), the casks being probably much cheaper. Oh, and what was that old saying about 'grapes and grains' again? Now, remember there were some excellent recent Glencadams, such as the 25 yo 'Remarkable' or the 19 oloroso, or the 15 oloroso, or just the plain 15 that's wonderful. |
We had to resort to artificial intelligence because
such a wine doesn't exist in real life.
Our sincerest apologies.
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Glencadam 'Reservé de Bordeaux Merlot Wine Cask Finish' (46%, OB, +/-2023) 
I really don't want to split hairs again but I'm afraid the word 'Reservé' does not exist in French. It's either 'réserve' or 'réservé'. Colour: white wine. Quite pale for a Merlot. Nose: strawberry, ripe damson, prunes, flavoured beer, cherry, then cakes, muffins, scones... It's decent, it's 'transgenre', why not! Mouth: premix, fruit juice and young malt whisky. Young Pineau des Charentes. Finish: medium, fruity. Dried figs, strawberries, walnut cake. Comments: it's alright. One would never drink this regularly, but for a tasting, it's not too terrible, even though we'd prefer a good blend.
SGP:651 - 74 points. |
It might be a secret plan of the whisky industry, making us appreciate blends in comparison with these NAS malts flavoured with little wines. It's very clever, it might just work! |
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Glencadam 'Reservé de Burgundy Pinot Noir Wine Cask Finish' (46%, OB, +/-2023)
I suppose they mean either 'Réserve de Bourgogne' or 'Burgundy Reserve'. Even ChatGPT wouldn't come up with 'Reservé de Burgundy'. This sounds like the name of a monk in 'The Name of the Rose' by Umberto Eco. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it's not too bad, better than the Merlot, less on the jammy side and more on leaves, buds, and even the proverbial cherry... But don't expect Chambertin. Mouth: the return of stewed red fruits and cherry stalks as herbal tea. Some Belgian kriek. Finish: medium, fruity, rather balanced. A hint of blackcurrant bud. Comments: it's not bad. The main point, as with the Merlot, is that there's no real clash, thanks to the relative neutrality of the malt used.
SGP:651 - 76 points. |
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Glencadam 'Reserva PX Pedro Ximénez Sherry Cask Finish' (46%, OB, +/-2023) 
They got it aaaall right this time! And well done for accentuating the first 'E' in Ximénez, generally everyone forgets it (especially us at WF). Colour: amber. Nose: this is much more classic, feeling far less about flavouring, and that's undoubtedly because we're already very accustomed to PX in our whiskies. After all, fortified wines are quite different from table wines (no kidding, S.?). Walnut wine, raisins, dried figs, blackcurrant liqueur, guignolet… It seems sweet but also quite pleasant. The palate will reveal the truth… Mouth: very sweet, very fruity, indeed very sugary, one wonders how much PX was left in the cask after the obligatory (yeah right) rinsing. Lots of white chocolate, then sweets and honey. Finish: quite long but it's the PX that does the job. Cherry liqueur in the aftertaste. One might wonder if they bought stocks of cherry liqueur from Eastern Europe? Comments: it feels a bit like PX re-fortified with malt whisky, but I find it quite enjoyable. To be served over two scoops of vanilla ice cream?
SGP:741 - 80 points. |
Perhaps an indie – and kings of finishing too. |
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Glencadam 10 yo 2012/2023 (46%, Murray McDavid, Benchmark, Koval Bourbon Cask finish, 919 bottles)
Looks like quite a few ex-Koval casks have been brokered in Scotland in recent years. Colour: white wine. Nose: pleasant, quite fresh and fruity, with honey, fresh brioche, cereals, hints of pear cake, tarte tatin, very ripe apples, and equally ripe apricots... All these elements blend well together, with a firm and straight structure leaning towards green pepper and cinnamon. That must be the Koval influence. Mouth: it's really good, quite easy-going, not complicated, just a tad sweet, but with lovely notes of tarte tatin again, maple syrup, custard, some sultanas, nougat, and just a hint of 'grain whisky and white pepper', likely from the bourbon. Finish: nice length, sweetness, biscuits, honey, ripe pears, and a little icewine touch at the very end, with more white pepper too. Indeed, wine seems to be with us today. Comments: really nice, easy, enjoyable... and superior.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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May 19, 2024 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
Dominican, Martiniquais, and Jamaican rums, along with a few from other countries |
We'll start with a small procrastinatory aperitif. We've been putting off this moment for a long time...
Picture: in 2016 Barceló announced that they were the first rum to achieve carbon neutral status based on 'The Bilan Carbone license'. |
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Well, I discovered that the rum 'Two Drifters', distilled near Exeter in England and available on EasyJet, was actually even 'carbon negative' according to the 'Climeworks' label. They collaborate with Carbfix, who turn the captured CO2 into stone and store it underground. We need to try Two Drifters! BTW, Flor de Caña just announced that they were the world's first spirit to be both carbon neutral and fair trade certified. Now Pernod's Absolut is carbon neutral too, apparenlly. One wonders, however, if in light of these examples, it is not necessary to produce spirits with a very neutral taste to achieve such 'carbon neutral' status. |
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Barcelo 'Gran Anejo' (37.5%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2023) 
So they say they're carbon neutral. We found the plain 'Anejo' extremely poor the last time we sampled it (WF 15) but given that this one is a 'Gran Anejo', our expectations are slightly elevated. Colour: gold. Nose: we often mock Bumbu, Don Papa, or Diplomatico, but at least those 'rums' have some flavour. Here, there is almost nothing, save for a hint of medicinal alcohol and liquid caramel. I doubt this little expression is intended to be savoured on its own; it likely needs a boost from Coke or Red Bull. Moreover, the term 'savour' seems rather anachronistic in this context. Mouth: seriously, this should be served over ice. On its own, it's quite dreadful, somewhat sweet, alcoholic, with rather vulgar flavours. We might say rotting Brussels sprouts and old turnips cooked in beet sugar syrup. Finish: short, which is the good news, but the aftertaste is rather unpleasant, requiring a large glass of sparkling water to cleanse it away. Comments: to be honest, the very low alcohol content itself did not bode well. Neutral on all accounts.
SGP:220 - 25 points. |
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Mhoba 'American Oak' (43%, OB, South Africa, +/-2022) 
This pure cane juice rum was finished in South African whisky casks, likely ex-Three Ships. Intriguingly, the new rum is initially matured in large demijohns fitted with charred American oak staves, before being transferred to these whisky casks. Colour: deep gold. Nose: the whole world now knows that Mhoba can be pretty fantastic and this is just more evidence. It slightly resembles a very good young high ester rum in the style of Savanna, just a tad softer. Diesel oil, olives, overripe bananas, a hint of graphite, liquorice, roots… Mouth: perhaps a little more chaotic than on the nose, less precise than the rather formidable cask strength version for LMDW that we tasted in January, but still lovely, fairly funky as they say, but with some burnt notes, beyond the saline or even maritime aspect. Finish: fairly long, saline, still a bit burnt and woody. Some smokiness in the aftertaste. Comments: nothing to complain about, it's good, but perhaps the reduction to a low proof doesn't quite suit it, which, in my opinion, is the case with almost all spirits heavily marked by wood ageing. The single casks rather tend to score around 85 – 87 points in our modest lists.
SGP:352 - 79 points. |
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Nicaragua 12 yo (43%, Cane Island, Single Estate, +/-2022)
The precise origin of this rum is a secret, but between us, does it really matter? What's amusing is that this rum is significantly more expensive than Flor de Cana of the same age. Colour: dark gold. Nose: oh, but this is not bad at all, with orange juice, an agricole character, multifloral honey, maple syrup, very ripe bananas and pineapples… Really quite good! Mouth: there's a sweet edge to it, it has probably been enhanced, which is a pity because the nose was truly beautiful. On the palate, it veers towards syrup and liquid caramel, while the background hints at sugarcane, orange, and honey. What a shame (though I could be mistaken, perhaps no 'liqueur' was added after all?) Finish: it's always the finishes that are tricky with spirits enhanced with sugar. It's somewhat cloying, moderately so. A pity, as it was a lovely juice. Comments: I suppose this is the taste the public prefers.
SGP:730 - 77 points. |
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Rhum J.M 'Epices Créoles' (46%, OB, Martinique, Atelier des Rhums, 2023)
Be aware, one might think this is a spiced or flavoured rum, but it's not. Or rather, it is, but they've done it by intensifying the wood, so we're talking about a young rum boosted with hyperactive wood (French and American oak). It's quite in the style of modern J.M rums, I believe. And much like many contemporary malt whiskies, deforestation doesn't seem to be a concern for distillers worldwide. Right, perhaps they're right… Colour: dark gold. Nose: we must admit, it works very well on the nose. Mango, geranium, jasmine, mandarin peel (chen-pi), prickly pear jam, manuka honey… In short, on the nose, yes, it works very well. Mouth: they've found a trick. I'm not entirely fond of the idea, but I must admit the result is quite impressive, with this combination of fruit jams and that majestic Szechuan pepper. Lots of juicy peaches, white, yellow… And a bit of our friend caraway. Finish: good length, more on spices, nutmeg and, once again, chen-pi (hi, Gene). It's only in the aftertaste that a bit of wood shavings appears. Comments: really very nice.
SGP:650 - 86 points. |
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Romero & Sons 1973 (51.8%, Flensburg Rum Company, Kirsch Imports, Ecuador, cask #22, 212 bottles, 2021)
We've already tried a sister cask last year and thought it was very good, despite, or perhaps because of its funny story. It seems that the casks have been topped-up over the years. Colour: deep gold. Nose: very soft, gently cakey, with a little cappuccino and a whole box of Hershey's assorted chocolates (the Christmas version). With water: a floral side, broom and gorse… Mouth (neat): really good. I cannot not think of the best batches of Santiago de Cuba, even is Santiago is ex-molasses and column, while this is ex-cane honey and bespoke pot still. More cake, orange liqueur, honeys, verbena… With water: Jaffa cakes, pancake sauce, more orange liqueur. Finish: medium, easy, with a lighter structure. Comments: a gentle old rum with attitude – and altitude, as it was stored in the high mountains for some time. I believe cask #36 had a little more oomph.
SGP:431 - 85 points. |
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Lluidas Vale 10 yo 2012/2023 (63.9%, Whisky Concerto, Requiem Chapter 5, Jamaica)
Labelled Lluidas Vale but of course, it's Worthy Park. We'll need to be cautious with the lethal alcohol strength. Colour: gold. Nose: this is a rather gentle WP at first glance, but at this strength, it's hard to detect many aromas. Let's fix that immediately. With water: we're really getting tar and rubber (new tyres), plus a load of salted liquorice straight from the Netherlands. I do mean salted liquorice, not another well-known Amsterdam specialty. Mouth (neat): lovely aromatic power this time. Vanilla flan topped with mangoes. Little funkiness at this stage. With water: we're edging a bit towards light style Hampden now, but of course, it's not Hampden. Beautiful fruitiness, tinned apricots and peaches, some white pepper… Finish: long, fruity and salty, with a hint of seawater. Still a lot of pepper and ripe peach in the aftertaste. Comments: it's a rather mild Jamaican for once, I imagine it was a 'lower' mark from Worthy Park. Of course, we like it a lot.
SGP:652 – 88 points. |
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Vale Royal 17 yo 2005/2022 'VRW' (61%, Velier & Silver Seal Serie Cedro, Jamaica, 193 bottles)
This is Long Pond with the marque standing for 'Vale Royal Wedderburn'. So, a rather moderate ester content here, around 200-250 gr/HLPA. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it's powerful and very aromatic despite the very high alcohol level. One might mention charcoal and a new pair of Nike trainers, plus freshly grated turmeric. It's quite unusual. With water: magnificent notes of wood glue, varnish, and still those brand-new Nike trainers just out of the box (and possibly fallen off the back of a lorry, as they say). Touches of thuja wood. Mouth (neat): massive, with fruit brandies and woody spices. Extremely powerful, it slightly scrapes the palate but water should sort that out. With water: the fruits arrive en masse, all largely overripe. The ubiquitous bananas, for instance, and half-crushed strawberries. Lots of cinnamon and clove. Finish: very long, a bit rubbery and metallic. Pink bananas and those famous Nike trainers. Comments: a somewhat improbable side but we totally love it. You could replace Nike with any other brand selling plastic at the price of platinum.
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
We absolutely must finish with a Hampden, but we'll do it quickly… |
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Hampden 23 yo 2000/2024 'LROK' (59.3%, The Rum Cask)
Good distillery, good marque, good bottler, what could possibly go wrong? Colour: straw. Nose: twelve litres of wood glue, seven kilos of green olives, plenty of seawater, a few gherkins, a fair amount of diesel oil, and an entire barrel of tar. The most astonishing part is that it's elegant, even if there's a slight hint of Saturday morning at IKEA. With water: absolutely no change, this baby is immune to water. Mouth (neat): these casks are always quite extraordinary. Lemon, olives, tar, salt, varnish. With water: exceptional. Salty varnish (yes), black olives, lemon, grapefruit, salted liquorice, and a touch of mezcal. Finish: long, with hints of salted pineapple and Parma ham. Comments: and to think that LROK is a 'light' marque in esters from Hampden's (it means Light Rhum Owen Kelly).
SGP:653 - 91 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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Rum versus Whisky |
Having tasted over two thousand rums of all kinds, and likely three to four tonnes of added sugar in the process, we realise that unfortunately, there is no correlation between the selling price and quality in rum, whereas there tends to be in whisky, even if in whisky the correlation is totally and sadly exponential. |
| We've also observed another significant difference between the rum and whisky worlds: the range of our scoring scale is much broader in rum, which actually peaks higher on average and dips much lower. If we discount vintage bottles or spirits aged 35 years or more, there are clearly and proportionately more rums scoring between 90 - 93 points than whiskies, with Jamaica, Guyana, Trinidad and Guadeloupe leading the charge. However, there are also many more rums scoring under 50 points, some perilously close to absolute zero, according to my personal tastes as a rather seasoned spirits enthusiast. |
| Yet, what's also troubling in the rum sector is that the worst, the most inferior 'rums' are the most successful, the most profitable. Granted, many are not true rums, they are just advertised as rums by most retailers, lying by proxy being highly effective (thanks again, Google). Those are the brands that the big players are buying up. The best-selling whisky blends remain far superior to the best-selling rums, in my humble opinion. But as soon as we start to tickle the pot stills or the creole columns, the trend reverses and the grand rums begin to dangerously dominate the top of our modest little rankings, followed by the cognacs and armagnacs from certain small houses. |
| I'm actually starting to seriously consider whether to open more slots for these malternatives on WF. Or not, we shall see. Peace and salute! |
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May 18, 2024 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Some Laphroaig,
for my son
Last week we welcomed our son, Arthur MacRaild, into the world and our family. If it's ok with you, we'll mark the occasion by indulging in a few celebratory notes from my favourite distillery: Laphroaig. |
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Laphroaig comes in for quite a bit of flak these days, and there's much about what the current owners do with it that I'm not too sure about to be honest, but the core distillate remains excellent. Most importantly the standard 10 year old is still a whisky which I find both pleasurable and evocative to drink in a pub or social setting.
Laphroaig was also my Dad's favourite dram, and the whisky that put the hook in me for whisky enthusiasm more broadly. I have no idea whether my kids, Molly and Arthur, will give two figs about whisky as they grow up, but as a very lucky and very happy dad, I'm hopeful and thrilled to toast their future with my favourite malt. |
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First up is a what I consider a pretty provocative official bottling. On the rear label it says: |
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"Our first Elements edition explores experimentation with mashing and fermentation styles to reveal an unexpected new dimension to our signature style… Using two different types of wort and mashing in old and new style tuns, Elements 1.0 finely tunes the process to create a non-chill filtered, 100% Islay malt with greater tropical fruit notes, without losing any of signature phenolic and maritime peatiness." |
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This is quite fascinating to me as I have spent pretty much the entirety of my short whisky career making noise about fermentation as an agent of character in Scotch Whisky. |
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We have also, more broadly as malt enthusiasts, been talking about this faded - or 'missing' - tropical fruit character in Islay single malts, for years now. Indeed, tropical fruits are arguably most famously associated with Bowmore and Laphroaig makes from the 1960s and 1950s; if you want to pinpoint exotic fruits and their most vivid manifestations in Scotch whisky, it's hard not to invoke these distilleries and decades. |
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So, to see this distillery's official owners adopting this language explicitly and associating it in the same sentence as something as geeky as mashing and fermentation is pretty revealing in my view. This isn't something that would have happened 10-15 years ago. It makes me wonder whether the cumulative weight of discussion in our culture about the phenomena of older style production characteristics and flavour profiles is beginning to be noticed, and perhaps even responded to, in these companies? |
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But, let's check the whisky itself and see if it isn't just marketing doublespeak… |
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Laphroaig Elements 1.0 (58.6%, OB, 2023) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: I find it quite obviously 'Laphroaig' but in a more modern way than an old style way. It's more about the medicines, TCP, iodine and seashore characteristics. I would not say this is in the same arena as the tropical fruit bombs of the 1960s and 1970s. Having said that I do love the rather intricate mix of bandages and medicines, increasingly complicated coastal, mineral and seashore qualities and rather brusque, punchy salinity. It's a very good Laphroaig with a clear voice! With water: very much on seawater, sandalwood, mineral salts, brine and anchovy paste. Perhaps some pretty sharp citrus fruits too. |
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Mouth: reminds me of a good older batch of the Cask Strength 10yo without too much intense wood influence. Wet rocks, kelp, hessian, raw iodine, oyster sauce and a wee glimmer of pink grapefruit. Very classical and classy in other words, close to the familiar modern house style I would say. Getting extremely umami, coastal and salty, with a superbly brittle and sharp peat smoke beneath everything. With water: becomes thicker, broader and more to do with camphor, tar, mineral oils, hessian and thicker peat smoke notes, although still lots of iodine and impressions of kelp and kippers. Extremely classical Laphroaig really. Finish: long, peppery, warming, tarry and peaty! Comments: I find this really excellent, but I also don't think it demonstrates what it claims to - I don't find it a particularly fruity whisky I have to say. To me this is an excellent modern Laphroaig that foregrounds the distillate and distillery character without any overt or vulgar wood that cloys or gets in the way of things. I don't detect overt tropical fruits, and perhaps that says something about the distinction between my own impressions - and expectations - of fruity Laphroaig, and those of the owners/producers. What it really leaves me with is the desire to talk to the people responsible for this whisky and ask them their own views on it and about their original motivations and methods. As it stands, I think it's a very good modern Laphroaig that is better than quite a few of the recent 10yo cask strength batches in my view; even if there's a lingering frustration that it's also another NAS bottling that reveals little about its inherent DNA or construction.
SGP: 467 - 88 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo (43%, OB, Spirit import, 70cl, early 1990s) 
This shouldn't take too long, these batches are 'well kent'… Colour: gold. Nose: gorgeous, creamy, layered peat smoke that has a tangible fatness and feeling of texture about it. Underneath that those familiar things like dried mango, pink grapefruit, smoked and herbal teas and wee glimmers of passion fruit and kumquat. Pure class! Mouth: very focussed on tea, that is smoked teas like Lapsing Souchong, but also green tea with lemon, exotic fruit teas and herbal teas. I wonder where this impression comes from? There's also beach foam, hessian cloth, aniseed and anchovy paste. Very savoury and showing a beautifully, dry and complex peat smoke flavour. Finish: long, peat, elegantly drying, herbal and with more dried exotic fruits throughout. Comments: all present and correct! What witchcraft was afoot in these days?
SGP: 566 - 91 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo (43%, OB, 1 litre, early 1990s)
This one should take even less time, in theory… Colour: gold. Nose: same profile, but perhaps even fruitier! Slightly less of this creamy and fat impression, and more on brightness, sharp fruits, tropical notes, wee crisp peat smoke and crushed seashell impressions. Love it! Mouth: wonderful 'total engagement', which is to say a profile that satisfies every craving: salty, fruity, sweet, smoky and also texturally impressive. In short: dried exotic fruits, saline coastal freshness, rich peat smoke and many subtle umami complexities that involve green olive, capers in brine, anchovy paste, iodine, camphor and seawater. In truth, we could probably have cut and paste the above note for the Spirit Import 10 yo, but of course that would be outrageous cheating! And it would have deprived us of tasting this one too. Finish: even longer, but notably saltier and drier, salt cured fish, brine, bone-dry peat smoke, pink sea salt and grapefruit acidity. Comments: such deadly whiskies these old Laphroaigs, they should probably be illegal.
SGP: 566 - 92 points. |
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Laphroaig 27 yo (51.2%, Elixir Distillers 'Director's Special', 1st fill barrel, 210 bottles, 2024)
Colour: deep orangey gold. Nose: we aren't too far away from the old 10 in many regards. Lots of tangerine, grapefruit and lemon, a feeling of smoked citrus fruits, crystallised citrus peels, smoked mead, smoked olive oil, lots of lovely things that have been gentle smoked with peat essentially. Evolves with more focus on medicinal embrocations, bandages, kiln smoke, Maggi seasoning, hessian cloth and a background oak spiciness. With water: sharper, more coastal, more mine ral and also a little more sooty with hints of charcoal alongside beach pebbles. rock pools and dried seaweed. Mouth: you do feel the age here with a little assertiveness from the oak, but the peat holds out rather remarkably with some beautiful peppery and salty notes, lots of familiar tarry flavours, dry phenolics, aniseed and salted liquorice. Add to that some smoked beers, more hessian and tarred rope. With water: excellent! Claws back this assertive salty side, with some further notes of juniper, tea tree oil and camphor. A few distant notes of dried exotic fruits such as mango and pineapple too. Those various teas are all back as well. Finish: long, nicely salty and drying with soy sauce, tar, pickled tarragon and iodine. Comments: totally excellent mature Laphroaig that shows its age in a very attractive fashion. Only these ever so slight hints of oak spiciness will prevent me going higher.
SGP: 466 - 90 points. |
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Islay 30 yo 1991/2022 (51.4%, Signatory Vintage for Wu Dram Clan '3rd Anniversary Collection', cask #2674, bourbon barrel, 237 bottles)
Ah yes, cask #2674, I have strong recollections of being in the Signatory Warehouses and rejecting this cask myself… ;) Xxx Colour: straw. Nose: these batches are just unbeatable. What I love is that they nose younger than 30yo, while still managing to display a lot of the kind of deep complexity that peated whisky can only accrue with age. So, in other words, super fresh and super complex! Which in this case is many coastal notes of pebbles, rock pools and seaweed, alongside bandages, squid ink, soy sauce, eucalyptus oil and a gorgeous, layered peat smoke. There's also some very familiar Laphroaig notes of TCP and iodine coming through loud and clear. A little sharp citrus too. With water: thick, crystalline peat smoke. Kiln air, kippers drizzled with lemon juice and shellfish broth. Also still powerfully medicinal. Mouth: superbly briny, salty, sharp and precise! Hugely coastal, hyper fresh and subdividing into dry peat smoke, wood ashes, crushed seashells, tar, black olives in brine and anchovy paste. Incredible salty, savoury profile! With water: the same powerful combination of saltiness, peat smoke, citrus and medicine, but now gathers fatness, texture and oiliness in the mouth. An impression of smoked olive oil cut with pickling brine. You could probably make some kind of dizzyingly silly dirty martini with this whisky. Finish: very long, extremely salty, medicinal, pure and stunningly peaty. Comments: those impatient Germans, this would perhaps have been ready by 40 years old. I am of course kidding. A great selection and probably a bottle to tuck away for 20-30 years of bottle ageing. Stunning old 'Islay single malt' that seems to combine the power and liveliness of a 10yo with the complexity of a 30yo.
SGP: 467 - 92 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo (91.4 US proof, OB, Carlton Import USA, 1960s)
From a bottle recently coughed up out of the USA, apparently with a low fill level… Colour: pale amber. Nose: what to say? An extraordinarily pure and deep aromatic peat profile, how you might imagine a slab of 3000 year old bog, smouldering on a plate would smell. But there's also medicinal roots, dried herbs, ancient liqueurs of various type, crystallised orange rind, bergamot, wintergreen and preserved exotic fruits. I find it very close in profile to the old 14yo OB bottling from the 1950s with this harmonious intertwining of peat, sherry and complicated tertiary notes. Mouth: it has probably softened somewhat with the lower fill level in this bottle, but the power and charisma of the peat flavour is still astonishing. Deep, broad, rooty, organic, herbal, vegetal, coastal and medical all at the same time. The sort of whisky that rips up and completely re-draws your internal mental assumptions about peat flavour. I also forgot to mention some stunning dried out old honey and honeycomb notes, also hessian, ink, pure tar extracts and this encroaching, utterly stunning saltiness, like peat smoked sea salt! One of these whiskies that leads the way and leaves you scrabbling to keep up… Finish: extremely long and profoundly deep, warm and glowing with old, dry, earthy peat. Comments: the label on this one says 'The richest whisky made' - no marketing double speak there! Slante, Arthur.
SGP: 566 - 95 points. |
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Big hugs to Mark, Phil and KC! |
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May 16, 2024 |
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A further selection of high-level grain only
We wrote an unnecessary and far too lengthy introduction yesterday, so we'll avoid that today. Especially since we're starting with some Invergordon de la muerte… Well, we hope so. |
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Invergordon 50 yo 1973/2023 (49.8%, Alambic Classique, Rare Old, Ex-Cuba rum barrel, cask #23026, 128 bottles)
Goodness, 50-year-old grain. The finishing in Cuban rum is intriguing, given that we often find soft rum notes in old grains, even when there has been no contact. Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, I do detect soft rum, but I can't tell you if: 1. It comes from the old grain, 2. It's from the Cuban rum cask, 3. It's a result of both. Who knows. There's clearly some sugar cane juice, a very, very slight benzine note, a few spruce hints, then it becomes increasingly dry on the nose, almost earthy. Lovely structure for a grain, but let's not forget it's an Invergordon. Mouth: Invergordon, in my opinion, is the Scottish grain whisky that's closest to a malt. Perhaps they use a good proportion of malted barley. Orange liqueur, fir bud liqueur, caraway, again a slight petroly touch, rutabaga (yes, really), a hint of cane syrup… But it remains generally dry. Finish: medium length, more on orange liqueur and a bit of ginger. Shall we mention Apérol Spritz? Too late, we did. Also, a tiny bit of tar. Comments: its fifty years suit it perfectly, a true uebergrain. Thanks to the Cubans?
SGP:652 - 88 points. |
Shall we try a young one for contrast? |
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Invergordon 17 yo 2007/2024 (61.4%, Fadandel.dk, refill bourbon barrel, cask #300864, 136 bottles)
Just checking the insurance policy for WF Towers… All good, let's proceed. Colour: white wine. Nose: indeed, acetone, ammonia, nail polish, Granny Smith apples, and green pears, plus ripe banana and vanilla. We won't take too many chances, but it seems quite promising, even without water. With water: enormous viscimetry, it's getting almost opaque. Anyway, this nose confirms the impression of a quasi-malt that we almost always get with Invergordon. Café au lait, cigarillos, chocolate, crème brûlée, and a touch of vegetables. White asparagus, perhaps, let's hurry, we're nearing the end of the season. Mouth (neat): very creamy, almost syrupy. 50% cane syrup and 50% good old family-made limoncello. With water: we're moving towards bourbon but also malted rye. It's quite fun. Rustic bread spread with molasses and dulce de leche. Finish: long, quite dry, and malty! Ovaltine in the aftertaste. Comments: certainly top-tier for a young grain whisky.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
Another Invergordon, please... |
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Invergordon 36 yo 1987/2024 (65.5%, Frank McHardy's Signature Reserve, 223 bottles)
Did you know that Frank McHardy began his whisky career at Invergordon Distillery? But that's no reason to send us this little whisky that could launch a SpaceX rocket without the slightest risk of failure (though an explosion, certainly). No, but seriously, is this kind of ABV even legal? We're jesting, but has anyone actually checked that? Colour: pale gold. Nose: not much, and that's normal. Coconut and vanillin. With water: it becomes very gentle, white chocolate, popcorn, and buttercream. Mouth (neat): coffee, orange liqueur, varnish. I repeat, coffee, orange liqueur, varnish. With water: ah, there we go, a mix of orange liqueur and model glue (remember that when we refer to non-edible materials when describing a palate, it means 'evokes model glue,' not that 'it tastes like model glue'), puncture repair glue, and barley syrup, with just a bit of wood pepper. Even with a lot of water, like the equivalent of Lake Geneva, it remains lively and even prickly. Crazy stuff. Finish: long, varnished, and bourbon-like. A slight acidic wood note at the end. Comments: truly a rollercoaster. Honestly, it's nice of the bottlers to believe we're capable of doing such reduction ourselves within a few minutes, but in reality, it remains quite hit-or-miss. Very good old grain anyway, it's just a bit lethal.
SGP:572 - 86 points. |
We're moving on to Strathclyde. I don't have much to say about Strathclyde. |
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Strathclyde 29 yo 1994/2024 (62.2%, Frank McHardy's Signature Reserve, 166 bottles)
Another attempted murder, tsk tsk. Colour: white wine. Nose: cut flowers, dried flowers, fresh hay, and above all, 62.2% alcohol. Notes of stearin. With water: very light, sweet, like a bag of marshmallows (the family size, not the EasyJet size). With water: more wax. It's pleasant. Mouth (neat): sweet, sugary, focused on candies and alcohol. You take all the fruit liqueurs you can find at the Spanish and Italian borders (rings a bell?), mix them all together and there you go. With water: more complex, leaning towards light but quality rums. We're almost back in Cuba. After all, whether you distil cereals or cane molasses in stills so tall you can't see the top even on a clear day, it doesn't make a huge difference, does it? Finish: medium length, lovely sweetness, quite elegant. Banana, coconut, a bit of sawdust. Comments: a very nice grain whisky, once more. We should also try it over crushed ice while listening to Ray Barretto, that should work well.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
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Strathclyde 50 yo 1974/2024 (44.3%, Alambic Classique, Rare Old, refill sherry cask, cask #24022, 53 bottles)
It's true, when you see such small outturns, you think that if they went to the trouble of bottling the cask, it must have been because they were believing it was worth the effort, precisely. Colour: gold. Nose: oh yes, herbal teas, camphor, mosses and ferns, yellow Chartreuse from the Spanish era, old amaro, verbena… But all of this is sublime! What a cask! Mouth: no need to write a novel, this is magical old grain. In fact, it has little of a grain about it, it navigates between an old malt from Lochside and a 1960s Bowmore. I'm serious. It makes you wonder if a trainee, back in 1974, didn't make a big stencil error at the filling station after indulging in too much of a trendy substance of the time. Tennent's, for example. Finish: incredible. It also reminds one of old Balblair, Clynelish, Coleburn… Only the aftertaste is a bit below par. Comments: no, but seriously, what was this cask, exactly?
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
Perhaps some blended grain to finish. Yes, they dared. |
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More Than One Grain Distillery 36 yo 1987/2024 (ABV in waiting, Frank McHardy's Signature Reserve, blended grain, 260 bottles)
I've always thought grain was used to dilute malt, but I didn't know you could also dilute grain with grain. That's somewhat convoluted, is it not? Colour: pale gold. Nose: it's very light. Vanilla cake, coconut balls, chamomile. With water: a hint of hay wine. Have you ever tasted hay wine? Mouth (neat): it's much more interesting than the nose suggests. Lots of citrus, citron, oranges, pink grapefruit… As almost always with grains, it lacks texture on the palate, but there's no frustration here. With water: gentle notes of coconut, vanilla, rooibos, oriental pastries… Finish: quite short and somewhat in the style of Havana Club. Comments: malt enthusiasts often struggle with the lighter, sometimes even diaphanous structures of grain whiskies. That's a little bit the case here, but aromatically, it's extremely lovely. A very lovely light blend, then.
SGP:640 - 84 points. |
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Blended Grain 50 yo 1972/2023 (50.8%, Decadent drinks, Notable Age Statements, refill bourbon barrel)
Colour: gold. Nose: another one that's pretty ungrainy. We're somewhere between a fruity Scottish malt like Tomatin or Balblair and a very good bourbon. We're talking orange cake, meadow honey, geranium, orange blossom water… With water: caraway, oriental bread, makrouts, juniper… what a delightful nose. There's even a very light hint of autumn leaves smoke, in autumn (seriously). Mouth (neat): excellent. There's a bit of richness, presumably from the wood, which adds the texture that we were missing a little in other very good grains we've tried these days. You only realise how important texture is when it's absent. You could say the same about many things in life: love, friendship, money, health (no one needs these cheap comments, S., please stop them.) With water: very beautiful, and it remains a grain whisky. Small hints of turmeric and saffron. Finish: quite long, quite complex. Lots of varied herbal teas, and a slightly peppery aftertaste, then onto passion fruits and mangoes. The finish is superb! Comments: the kind of grain that rekindles your fondness for grain whiskies. We've had a few of those these days, but you'll note that we still need age statements from 35 to 50 years, or even more. In my humble opinion, age is even more crucial with grains than with malts.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
See you in a few days for more grains. Another brand new 50 yo Invergordon just in, we'll have it then. |
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May 15, 2024 |
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A Surge of Scottish Grain Whiskies
Part one, North British |
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North British's 38-whashbacks tun room (North British Distillery) |
Some old grain whiskies are quite interesting, while the younger ones are better suited for use as antifreeze. I'm joking, of course. That said, I recalled the other day that several malt distilleries used to initially treat new or first-fill casks with grain whisky to remove certain, shall we say, excessive characteristics (the kind we seek nowadays, times have changed) before pouring the precious malts into them. This is why visitors were often finding batches of very young empty grain casks in the yards of malt distilleries where they would fill the casks on site. These grain whiskies were thus beginning their life in very active wood, which is somewhat similar to practices in Cognac, for instance. Or in Kentucky or Tennessee… This might explain some profiles being quite dominated by vanillin and coconut notes in some grain whiskies, even older ones. Let's delve into this… |
Ah, I almost forgot, we'll start with a small series from North British. It's an interesting distillery because it has long distilled a lot of French maize, and I imagine they continue to do so. Today, it is a joint venture between Diageo and The Edrington Group. The production capacity varies significantly depending on the websites discussing it, and the current shittification of Google (bang, another jab at WF's pagerank!) isn't helping matters. It's crucial to know what we are talking about, just the grain whiskies or the total capacity, including neutral spirits for vodka, etc. So, if you agree, we'll avoid displaying approximate or even false data (too bad for ChatGPT and the others). PS: the official site still mentions 2.5 billion litres! Billions! |
Oh dear, what a lengthy introduction that was! So, as we mentioned, a few North British... |
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North British 32 yo 1991/2023 (47.6%, Whisky Picnic Bar, cask #200323, first fill barrel, 176 bottles)
We find ourselves in Taiwan once more; always a delight. Colour: very pale white wine. Quite surprising for a first fill of over thirty years. Nose: absolutely typical of a carpentry workshop (ha), with warm sawdust, plenty of vanilla, a hint of coconut and pineapple, and above all, an overwhelming impression of piña colada. An entire vat of piña colada, plus a small touch of pine resin and cumin adding an extra twist. Great softness on the nose, rather lovely. Mouth: almost no harshness despite the presence of wood, then lots of green tea (the Taiwanese ones are excellent, I've just realised this again), some fruit candies, then the expected vanilla and coconut. All this without excess, it can quickly become dreadful but we're not at all there. Finish: short to medium length, soft, really a lot on green tea. Some orange juice in the aftertaste, which offers a bit of zest in the finish. Slight smoky side. Comments: simply very good for a grain that will have seen only another grain (bourbon, presumably). Very nice balance.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
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North British 31 yo 1991/2023 (46.7%, Hogshead Imports, first fill bourbon barrel, 186 bottles)
Is it allowed to call yourself Hogshead Import and bottle barrels? (S., this is the most ridiculous joke since the year 2000!) Colour: pure gold. Nose: this one is more mentholated, terpenic, more concentrated, yet it never veers towards glue or acetone. Plenty of orange blossom, panettone, raisin bread, then a touch of eucalyptus essential oil, massage oil, sauna… And finally, hints of soft rum, perhaps from Belize (I'm guessing here, but it's neither Jamaican, nor French, nor 'Venezuelan' in style). Mouth: we're closer to the Picnic Bar, but with more orange, zests, vanilla, with a touch of mild curry and white chocolate. Quite a few wood spices but again, we remain balanced. Finish: medium length. The coconut and pineapple now emerge, it's almost as if we're in the Caribbean, indeed. Comments: they are very different but of the same overall quality. High overall quality for some simple grain whisky.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
For now, everything is going very well... Come on, let's have another 1991 then... |
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North British 33 yo 1991/2024 (47.1%, Fadandel.dk, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #200317, 178 bottles)
A sister cask to the Picnic Bar, quite evidently. Colour: white wine. Nose: no, it's very different, even purer, you can almost smell the maize, popcorn, white nougat, blancmange, but also freshly cut grass and candle wax. It's very nicely narrow, rather refined, with just a touch of cumin again. Mouth: we are very close now. Green tea, vanilla, coconut, piña colada, then some orange juice. A slight varnish note as well. Finish: medium length, with some mild vegetables. Salsify and even, perhaps, a bit of cassava. Cassava in Edinburgh! Comments: in the end, it's the orange juice that had the last word.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
These barrels are rather similar, we're somewhat in a tunnel. You might add that, moreover, they are from the same vintages. So, one last one then, from a different vintage… |
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North British 30 yo 1993/2024 (51.5%, Frank McHardy's Signature Reserve, 166 bottles)
I find it amusing that the former manager of Springbank, who crafted so many rich, textured, and full-bodied malts, has such a keen interest in grain whiskies. But after all, Stallone is also a painter… Colour: pale gold. Nose: this time we're much more on almond croissants, vanilla flan, white chocolate, nougat, brioche, toasted bread, breakfast honey… It's all very gentle. With water: a touch of sawdust, oak chips, and milk chocolate. Mouth (neat): a bit of varnish and glue, of the better kind, then orange syrup and mixed fruit brandy. Much more powerful and a tad rustic compared to the nose. With water: blonde almond turron. That's delightfully nostalgic, we love it. This little North British swims very well. Finish: medium length, with the return of oranges and nougat. A bit of caramel and sweetcorn cream in the aftertaste, with a few drops of whisky in it (naturally). Try corn soup with whisky, it's magical. Comments: it's quite gentle, it's quite round, it's reassuring. And there are none of the flaws often found in grains (empty spirits, right). Excellent, despite the lack of Springbanky flavours and aromas (I couldn't resist).
SGP:641 - 87 points. |
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May 14, 2024 |
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Some young Aberfeldy and Pitilie |
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| Dewar's Aberfeldy Distillery (Dewar's) |
Let's not forget that the true name is now 'Dewar's Aberfeldy Distillery'. I quite like this place; it's always amusing to discreetly listen to the comments of tourists and realise that we enthusiasts sometimes seem a bit lofty. "A bottle of whisky over £100, are they maaaaad?!" |
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Aberfeldy 12 yo (40%, OB, +/-2023)
Frankly, these 40% vol. do make it feel a bit cheap, although the bottle itself is quite lovely. We also very much appreciate that no finishing has been imposed on it. I hope we are not mistaken. Colour: light gold. Nose: an array of cereals and honey, then sultanas and a hint of orange juice. Simple, effective, pretty, light. Perhaps not enough to write a novel about... Mouth: really very light, a bit sweet, with a pleasant arrival but a sudden drop. Slightly herbaceous and rather thin, actually. Previous batches seemed a bit more, let's say, robust. Finish: short, more spicy, with more cakes, cookies… But it becomes dry and overly focused on tea and cardboard after that. A pity. Comments: let's not exaggerate, it's really a nice malt, but I think independents would have done something with a bit more presence. We shall see…
SGP:441 - 80 points. |
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Aberfeldy 10 yo 2013/2024 (48.2%, Signatory Vintage, Small Batch #10, 1st fill oloroso sherry butts)
From this notable new series from Signatory... Colour: gold. Nose: well, here we are. Superb leather, tobacco, and green walnuts, then all kinds of raisins and a lovely touch of armagnac from a skilled producer. Armagnac is always crafted by skilled producers, anyway. Very fine sherry. Mouth: powerful, with a bit of wood (spruce, cedar) and plenty of prunes and nutmeg. Then blood oranges, peppers, cardamom, and even a hint of curry. Finish: long, more on bitter chocolate and clove. Water isn't really necessary, but one feels inclined to try it: not much change, except for a bit more tobacco and allspice, then some cocoa powder. Comments: there's a hint of 'modern' work with active or reactivated casks, but it's a success.
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
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Aberfeldy 10 yo 2013/2023 (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice, 2nd fill barrel)
Closer to you, my distillate... Colour: white wine. Nose: obviously, this is my preferred style, close to the juice, the barley, the undulating fields, the gentle climate, the kindness of the people, the softness of the Midlands… A Parisian patisserie at 6 AM, with fresh croissants, pain aux raisins, crispbreads, and macarons of the day. And madeleines, of course. Magnificent nose, pure and precise. But why am I only tasting it now? Mouth: very close to the official bottling, yet it remains taut throughout, with green tea, meadow honey, apple cake, and cinnamon biscuits... The palate might not quite reach the level of the very fine nose, but it's still very good. Finish: fairly long, close to barley and ripe apple. Comments: Aberfeldy is perhaps not a 'wow!' malt, but it's a very lovely distillate, and here's the proof. There are also some fine Dewar's around at the moment, but we scarcely have the space to sample large-batch blends. Whiskyfun is cursed…
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
And now, let's have a gentle laugh... We used to, think that the number of distilleries in Scotland was exploding, but in fact, they're just multiplying the names of each one. Just kidding. |
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Pitilie 9 yo 2015/2024 (54.8%, Dràm Mor, 1st fill Buffalo Trace barrel finish, cask #247, 240 bottles)
The label tells us that this was distilled at 'Aberfeldie Distillery'. It's worth noting that there once was a 'Pitillie Distillery' in the vicinity, near Pitilie Farm on the Pittilie Burn (thanks to scotchwhisky.com, one of the finest websites ever!). Oh, the intrigue of names and double consonants… Colour: white wine. Nose: it's almost the same whisky as the Equinox, which is good news. We remain very close to fresh barley, apple, ripe plums, and brioche dough… With water: pear and a hint of banana liqueur. A familiar molecule, isn't it? Mouth (neat): vanilla, caramel, and plenty of butterscotch, with a peppery layer. With water: little change, except more honey and apples. Lovely freshness, a touch of chalk. Finish: long. Apple, cinnamon, barley, brioche. A hint of lemon in the aftertaste. Comments: same territory as the 2013 'Decadent'. I'm not dead sure these are malts that we'll remember all our lives, but what's sure is that they are really very good.
SGP:551 – 85 points. |
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May 13, 2024 |
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WF's little duos, today indie Balblair ex-refill bourbon
Did you see that Distillery Manager John MacDonald just left Balblair, after almost twenty years of service? We rarely publish this kind of stuff but I remember well when we first visited Balblair, he had been so cool with us… a good twenty years ago, even if I'm not sure he was already the Manager. Cheers John MacDonald! Sadly we haven't got any new OB up our sleeves, but these wee IBs will do. |
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Balblair 9 yo 2013/2023 (57.1%, A.D. Rattray for WhiskyFacile, refill bourbon barrel)
Should we expect an avalanche of bananas, mangoes, plums, ripe peaches, and muscat berries, or is this little one still a bit too young for that? Let's see... Colour: white wine. Nose: it's still a bit warm and alcoholic at first, with a hint of varnish and fresh sawdust, but it develops well, even if we never really move towards exotic fruits. Apple, pear, green plums, white peaches... With water: as often, it's the fresh bread that stands out more, sourdough, pizza dough... We like that. Mouth (neat): the arrival is fruitier than on the nose, with a whole pack of liquorice allsorts and lemon soft sweets from Haribo's. There's again a bit of new fruit eau-de-vie, varnish, and glue, but that doesn't bother us. With water: little change, probably more liquorice, which calls for a slight salty touch. Finish: quite long, young, fruity, nervous, still tight as a thong (as my friend Philippe S. would say – tsk tsk). Comments: some aspects remind us of a distillery not very far away, further north along the east coast, but rather without its proverbial wax. Excellent young Balblair.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Balblair 26 yo 1997/2023 (54.1%, Gordon & MacPhail, Kirsch Import, refill bourbon barrel, cask #1884, 153 bottles)
Let's see if the exotic fruits have come through with time... Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, there aren't that many differences, we remain on orchard fruits, fresh pastries, pears, custard... Alright, there are a few small bananas and indeed, some notes of passion fruit emerging. Oh, and lemon balm, orgeat, citronella, a bit of damp garden soil, and also vervain... It's very nice. With water: that typical side, on multivitamin fruit juice, banana, mango, orange, papaya, pear... Mouth (neat): really a pure Balblair this time, with a marked citrus side, yuzu, passion fruit, and that slight chalky side of a great Sauvignon Blanc from a limestone terroir. That said, it seems a bit younger than 26 years. With water: pure Balblair, very fresh and fruity. Finish: good length, a hint of mint and eucalyptus and liquorice. Everything is very good. Comments: it's amazing, it reminds a bit of certain aspects of the old Balblair 10 years from G&M, those at 40% vol. which went down faster than well-chilled Coca Zero. But this 1997 is a thousand times superior, even if it's not quite on the level of the great 1966 official ones from a few years ago. I'm referring to the ones John MacDonald poured us.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
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May 12, 2024 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
More cognacs and armagnacs (cream of the crop only)
Since it's Sunday. Next Sunday, it will be rum again, unless we pour some mezcals, old genevers, or other alternative spirits. We'll see... In any case, today we decided to do all this completely at random.
Current campaign for Armagnac. The aim was 'to reinvent and rejuvenate its image', as it's always, invariably been since at least Methuselah. Got to love them!
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Jean-Luc Pasquet 'L'Organic Folle Blanche L.XIII' (49.6%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2024)
The last batch went very well. I remind you that folle blanche is supposed to be a much more quality grape variety than the others, but its post-phylloxera grafting may have weakened it and it remains quite rare. Well, that's what I seem to have read somewhere. This baby is ten years old. Colour: golden. Nose: it's aromatic and a bit oily, somewhat like a malt, with a very nice balance between the fruits, or rather the fruit peels (peach, apple) and the floral infusions like chamomile and orange blossom. A bit of slightly underripe mashed banana. I'm re-reading my notes for the previous version, we're very close. Mouth: a lot of liquorice, with touches of salt, still that fairly oily and slightly herbaceous side, then raisins and that famous orange blossom, earl grey, Turkish delight, etc. But it remains tight and quite nervous, despite the rather remarkable oily aspect. Could they have added some Golden Promise? Finish: quite long, with a return of salty liquorice. Almost a bit of beef jerky at the end. Teriyaki flavour, please. A bit of mint at the very end. Comments: it also takes water very well and becomes even more liquorice-led (indeed, with an artisanal pastis side, if you like).
SGP:562 - 86 points. |
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Fanny Fougerat 'Iris Poivré XO' (40%, OB, Borderies, 7500 bottles)
It's quite a statement to bottle such a baby at 40% vol. That might mean 'our ancestors have always done it this way and we don't care much about trends'. If that's the case, we applaud it! By the way, 'iris poivré' means 'peppered iris' (I think they had gotten that, S.). Colour: straw. Nose: it's quite soft and indeed floral. We find liquorice and violet, orange blossom, wisteria, honeysuckle, and especially a lot of green earl grey tea (earl grey exists in both black and green, did you know?). Also, a bit of patchouli, which gives this lovely cognac such a fresh, hippie side. Yes, really. Mouth: it's fuller than expected, always fresh and close to nature (flowers, shrubs, damp earth) and with a very, very slightly muscaty side, but that's not uncommon in young cognacs. Pear cake covered with cinnamon. Finish: not so short, always fresh. Some touches of service tree liqueur and a bit more liquorice in the aftertaste. Comments: very good, but at 40% vol. the WF drinkability index is very high. So, caution is required...
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
Well, these two young cognacs have really done their job. Right, let's go down… |
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Daniel Bouju 'Lot 60 Un Toast à L'Amitié' (50.4%, OB for Geert Lagast & Raf De Ruysscher, 2023)
So, 1960, baddest year for wine, good year for Man (yeah right). More cognac smuggling by our dear Belgian friends. I hope Ursula v/d L. will do something eventually. In my meagre experience, Boujus tend to be dark and heavy (ish). Colour: coffee. Nose: hold on, is this old Ténarèze? Very old Brandy de Jerez? 1950s Glen Grant by G&M? Macallan 'Gran Reserva'? Could we see the papers? Prunes, coffee liqueur, very old cream sherry, ultra-fresh pipe tobacco and forty tonnes of the blackest and juiciest big fat Corinthian raisins. That's what we get. With water: awesome prunes, treacle toffee pudding, Christmas cake… Mouth (neat): heavy indeed, but not exactly stuffy or cloying. Huge liquorice, crazy PX, then menthol and another 40 tonnes of those Corinthian raisins. What's troubling is that it would remain elegant and drinkable. With water: it does stand water and the oak never really comes to front stage. Perhaps a tad more grapey, teaish… Well water is unnecessary. Finish: awesome without water, if a tad armagnacqy. No probs, contrary. Chocolate and prunes. Comments: I shouldn't have added water – when you see what's happening with Nestlé's waters these days - but it's a very great, very Bouju-y (as far as I can tell) cognac.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Dartigalongue 1981/2024 (45%, OB, Bas Armagnac)
This one was just bottled in April, we got it straight from Nogaro in the Gers. Naturally, Nogaro is famous for its armagnacs, but also for its grand-prix-level motor races, their 'Circuit Paul Armagnac' being known just everywhere on this planet. Quite. As for 1981, that's Kim Wilde, of course. Colour: deep amber. Nose: this is where armagnac meets cognac, had you said this was an old Borderies or something, I wouldn't have cried 'wolf!'. Superlative overripe peaches, all-flower meadow honey, soft molasses (cane), a tiny touch of black truffle, praline, pistachio nougat, then more oldness (pine resins, black tea) but this remains fresh and oh-so lively. Mouth: much more on wood, but it's all under control and we know it's a proper style down there. Litres of black tea (remember, black Assam), a lot of bitter chocolate, cigars, pine needles, a little thyme oil, terpenes, turpentine… And we just love this, as we keep remaining way below the limits. This menthol + chocolate combo that's coming out now is perfect. That's right, After Eights, thin mints. Finish: long, clearly piney now, with a small side remining us of Greek retsina wine, and that works. Varnish. Comments: These quite woody old armagnacs can stick your tongue to the roof of your mouth, as they say, but that's absolutely not the case here. Wonderful bottle, superbly traditional, reminding me of my Sunday meals at my grandfathers'. Next step, doing laps at the Nogaro circuit in a Bugatti Type 35. One must have goals in life.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
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Hontambère 1983 (54.2%, Grape of The Art, Ténarèze, cask #G4, 2023)
As I understand it this is Pouchégu, sourced by Hontambère, bottled by Grape of The Art. So be it. Colour: copper amber; Nose: relatively light, rather on incense, cedarwood, chicken broth and apricots. Unusual 'fusion' combo but some menthol is gathering the troops after a short while. With water: chocolate all around, plus dried fruits (apricots, pears). The chicken have gone. Mouth (neat): some oak for sure, more cedarwood, tobacco, pinewood, very black tea Russian-style, the blackest chocolate and the blackest coffees… With water: it's become fruitier, almost a little jammy. Spiced jams, orange and ginger… Finish: rather long, gently rustic, with more coffee and chocolate. Touch of camphor. Comments: perhaps the most armagnacqy of them all. In truth I used to have, in my remote family, an old grandpa who used to raise fighting bulls and armagnacs, for sports. He was owning many casks of Ténarèze that used to be a little bit like this one. He was still riding his motorbike at the age of 90 and eventually died just before reaching 100. The family keeps drinking his old Ténarèzes. Why am I telling you this?
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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Aurian 45 yo 1977/2024 (45.2%, Armagnac Sponge, Decadent Drinks, Bas armagnac, 156 bottles)
Monsieur Sponge is back. Colour: copper. Nose: it's a fruit compote, with ripe cherries, deep red peaches, a hint of caramel, geranium flowers, peonies, and garden compost. It's obviously very beautiful and certainly a tad rustic. Mouth: it's even better on the palate. The pretty obvious woodiness acts like a crown of diamonds around an emerald or a sapphire (you're exaggerating there, S.) More cooked red fruits, chocolate, rosemary, liquorice, a few cloves, touches of tar, a few drops of tomato sauce... Finish: long, very beautiful, almost fresh but always with those notes of cooked fruits. Indian spices (red tandoori). Comments: one can only wonder why most armagnacs age so much better than malt whiskies. We'll have to interview The Sponge on this subject.
SGP:661 - 90 points. |
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Grande Champagne 'n°19.74' (49.4%, Malternative Belgium, Private Bottling)
I don't have a photo of this bottle, so I'm putting up a portrait of Thijs van Leer, the singer of Focus in 'Hocus Pocus', around 1974. A crazy thing, give it a go if you've never heard it (that is, if you're under 60). I'd like to add that I have a very high opinion of the work of Malternative Belgium, it reeks of well-maintained telomeres and neurons in good working order. Colour: deep gold. Nose: this time we're not going for complexity, there's apple, honey, and hay. It's just that the proportions are perfect. Mouth: it's very funny, once again it's a very compact old cognac, almost simple, with apples and a bit of lemon and peppermint. In fact it's almost an abstract cognac, a Miro or Calder of French brandy. Finish: same. Comments: I like it really a lot, but I may have missed a few parts.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Le Noble 'Lot 68' (45.2%, Malternative Belgium & The Whisky Jury, Grande champagne, 129 bottles, 2023)
From a 'bouilleur de cru', so probably an individual. It's true that in France, we need to produce a large part of what we consume, coz we wouldn't want to run dry (even if we're already #1 export market in volume for Scotch – but we drink a lot of the nasty stuff). Colour: full amber. Nose: and what an individual. This is peach-led, which is the #1 kind of arrival with anything cognac or even wine brandy, then we have ripe apricots, mirabelles and quinces. A few amaretti and macaroons. Mouth: some tannicity sure feels, peach skin, cedarwood, pear peeling, heavier Darjeeling.. but balance was preserved. It's in the background that tea and oak tannins seem to be having a blast, but they'll never actually get through. Finish: rather long, rather fresh, rather peachy. More mint and black tea in the aftertaste. Comments: 1968, that was In-A-Gadda-Da-Vida, right? In any case, I 'd believe bottling old cognacs or armagnacs really means knowing how to play with the limits. Sexiest work there is, no?
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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May 10, 2024 |
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Ardnahoe, Strathearn and other New Scottish Cats
Here we have the first official Strathearn, the first Ardnahoe as well, and a few other young distilleries and variants. The world of Scottish whisky continues to evolve (now, that's a useful comment, S.!)
Ardnahoe Distillery on Islay (Ardnahoe) |
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Glenwyvis 2019 '2023 release' (46.5%, OB, 12,000 bottles)
Straight from Dingwall, a majority of ex-bourbon, plus some refill and '17%' (that's right) wines. You can't make Scotch whisky without table wine these days, I suppose there must be a new rule about that at the honourable SWA. I had thought the 2022 edition was really good (WF 80). Colour: pale white wine. Nose: I find it extremely barley-y, full of Weetabix, then mashed carrots, cut apples and plums. A good few tinned greengages too. Mouth: a tad rough, which is normal, with fruit peel, lemon zests, some muesli, more cereals, and something globally pretty tangy. Moves towards mirabelle plums and oranges, a very nice move for sure. Finish: long, tart, grassier as almost always, with green pears. The aftertaste has a lovely lemonness. Comments: perhaps not quite on par with the awesome 2018 by Berry Bros. from last year but very solid young drop. Next step would be honeys and waxes, see you in a few years.
SGP:451 - 82 points. |
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Glenwyvis 2018/2024 (61.5%, OB, Kirsch exclusive, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt, cask #243, 671 bottles)
We're in Germany. Colour: full gold. Nose: not that huge at this very high strength, but you do get pencil shavings and cocoa, as well as some kind of candied ginger dipped into orange syrup. Neat and tidy this far. With water: oranges are having the upper hand. Awesome old triple-sec, Grand-Marnier, Cointreau, Mandarine Impériale and all that. Rather less tannicity than feared, hurray. Mouth (neat): big, oak-spice-driven, apparently. Full of cinnamon mints and ginger. Awesome triple-sec + mango syrup combo in the background, but no chances taken, with water: almost no changes this time, it is a tad gritty, tea-ish and kind of tannic. On the other hand, this lovely citrus keeps it afloat and all remains well. Finish: long, spicy, zesty, fresh. The cedarwood is back in the aftertaste (a.k.a. pencil shavings) together with some peach liqueur. Comments: did I not miss the oloroso part? The 'obvious' oak never was a problem. Very, very nice young drop.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
Since we're talking about Germany, just a few thoughts on this year's stunning Whisky Fair in Limburg. It's wonderful to see so many old friends again, and there are increasingly more new whiskies, although they are mainly from very young distilleries from around the world or names like Linkwood, Teaninich, Benrinnes, or Secret Orkneys that are 10 years old and bottled by young, vibrant, enthusiastic and sometimes pretty new independent bottlers. Very good indeed! However, what slightly worried me was the abundance of grey hair within the audience, including mine; it almost felt like being at a Stevie Nicks gig. Are the younger generations a little less interested in whisky? Or is it simply a matter of prices now being far too high? This trend is also apparent in the wine industry. Let's move on… |
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Strathearn 'Inaugural Release' (50%, OB, 2024)
From a combination of virgin, bourbon and sherry casks, around 7 years old on average. Perthshire's quasi-pocket distillery Strathearn now belongs to Douglas Laing. We've already tried two or three indie youngsters, they were good. Colour: light gold. Nose: bread and pastry dough plus candied fruits. Simply perfect. Right, that was a bit short, so say panettone, sourdough bread, rhubarb juice and bamboo shoots. How does that sound? With water: fresh brioche straight from the baker's. Lovely breakfast. Also a closed pack of cigarettes (how about Gold Leaf?) Mouth (neat): mango, beeswax, more rhubarb, golden syrup, pancake sauce, green tea (Gunpowder) and pink grapefruit. Great idea to have waited quite bit longer before releasing a first official, well, release. With water: water pulls out sweet roots. Gentian, carrots, all complex flavours that are highly desirable in my book. Finish: long, rather more on milk chocolate and some slightly gingered orange juice. Touch of fresh turmeric in the aftertaste. Comments: awesomely complex at this age. TBH we visited the distillery while it had just been built and the tiny gear had been a little, let's say, frightening. Mea culpa, much impressed today.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Strathearn 10 yo 2014/2024 'Dramton Abbey' (57.1%, Thompson Bros., private bottling, 100l sherry cask)
So, with a dozen friends including The Sponge, a Fiddler and the Thompsons, we got the keys of the distillery ten years ago and could make our own malt whisky under our own specs, with no distillery owners, manager or workers in the way! It's almost been as if we only had to leave the keys under the doormat when leaving. Thank God we were having M.D. (that's Master Distiller) Simon Thompson with us. This is the end result, ten years later. Colour: deep gold. Nose: right between some middle-aged rhum agricole, straight bourbon and fresh estate cognac. The sum of it all generates this… dazzlingly cakey malt whisky. As someone once sang, maybe I'm amazed. Love the parsley in it! With water: classic malt, with some ale, cakes, chocolate, tobacco, menthol, camphor and just a little rainwater and damp chalk in the background. Mouth (neat): tiny citrus and even tinier herbs, plus many variations on ginger and the usual turmeric and cinnamon. With water: superb. Fifty percent fir honey, fifty percent proper marmalade and fifty percent assorted oriental spices and rosewater. That's more than one hundred percent but indeed, it's big whisky. Finish: long, superbly jammy, candied and spicy. Peppered fig jam or something like that. Comments: clearly oriental in some way. We won't score this baby but rest assured that any numbers would have been pretty high. Regarding my own role in this work, I believe I butchered two or three old Alsatian Lieder and told a few pointless jokes during the heating. You see, that worked.
SGP:651 - (-) points. |
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Ardnamurchan 7 yo 2016/2023 (58.1%, OB, for Switzerland, 1st fill PX sherry hogshead, cask #838, 324 bottles)
Ardnamurchan has now truly become a part of the landscape of great Scottish malts, with its splendid west coast aspect. Well, I don't always understand everything on the labels (AD/09:16, is that a reference to battleships?) but that's probably just me. Hoppla… Colour: full gold. Nose: someone has kilned a banana cake and then drizzled it with chestnut honey and mint-liquorice sauce. There's a very subtle, rather pleasant composted fruit aspect to it. With water: much the same, but with just a few hints of pea cream. Or take Ninon cream, quite an incredible thing. I'll see if I can find you the recipe… Mouth (neat): creamy, cheerfully medicinal, minty and lemony, with plenty of thyme (you have to like it, I personally love it) and some sultanas. The PX has remained refined. With water: we add some orange marmalade and a bit of ginger. Very classic. Finish: long, focused, always on this marmalade. Comments: superb, even if the PX seems to have slightly diminished some of the peatiness. It's true that PX can be overpowering, but here, we are well within limits.
SGP:654 - 88 points. |
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Ardnahoe 5 yo 'Inaugural Release' (50%, OB, 2024)
The first one! Ex-bourbon and ex-oloroso sherry casks. To keep us waiting since the first distillation at Ardnahoe (they're situated between Bunnahabhain and Caol Ila) in 2018, Hunter Laing have been deliciously bombarding us maltheads with old Caol Ila, Laphroaig, Bunnahabhain, Bowmore, and even some very high-quality Port Ellen under their 'The Kinship' label. So frankly, we could have waited a few more years. Hey, just kidding. Colour: gold. Nose: it's very much pure Islay, perhaps leaning more towards the south shore than the east shore in style. But if I remember correctly, there's also a magnificent Celtic cross up there not too far from the east coast. Here the smoke is pronounced, slightly acrid (like a back-drafting fireplace), but there's a rather specific fruity combination right behind it. I'm not sure if it will be found in future bottlings, but I detect blood orange mixed with apricots and a few tomato notes. I love it when a bit of tomato comes through in a malt whisky. Even tomato bush. Brilliant. With water: not much development, maybe a bit more brininess, olives, pickles… Mouth (neat): very pure, crystalline, less oily and broad than the nose might suggest, hence a bit closer to its southern neighbour. Langoustines, oysters, granny smith apples, sea bream ceviche with lime and mint (why not?) plus green pepper and a touch of mint tea. A slight Jamaican rum aspect too, which is amusing. It's a 'good mood' whisky. With water: really, really good. In fact we're still a bit in the territory of an Islay distillery that starts with the same first three letters. Finish: same, although this time there's a more medicinal aspect coming through. Comments: it seems they really sought the DNA of Islay, rather than a more unique but perhaps more 'pretentious' and 'deviant' style. I find that clever. It's very, very, very good. And I like it that it's not NAS. I think we'll have more Ardnahoe soon.
SGP:467 - 89 points. |
It's quite incredible how much Islay has changed. We will soon be republishing an old interview with a distillery manager that we conducted in 2004. You'll see just how amazing it is! |
Many more young cats very soon… |
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May 9, 2024 |
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Little Duos, today Tamdhu and Duich |
One OB vs. one IB, both sherry. Classic short line-up… |
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Tamdhu 14 yo 'Ambar' (43%, OB, travel retail, oloroso, +/-2021)
Ambar means amber in Spanish, I believe it does too in English, but only with a Cockney accent. Not too sure whether this is full maturation in oloroso or only a finishing, not too websites seem to agree on that. It's to be noted that newer expressions seem to carry a vintage statement, but not this very one. Colour: more golden than 'ambar', but no worries. Nose: classic softness, with breakfast honey and dandelions, nougat, ripe plums… Well it does not feel like first fill oloroso (even speed-seasoned oloroso wood). A tiny whiff of fresh mint, caramel, orange blossom water, oriental pastries, a handful of juicy golden sultanas… Really nice and easy. Mouth: a touch of newer oak, pepper, cinnamon… Then more Speysidey nutty sherry, overripe apples, marmalade, cakes… And more oriental pastries. I'll dare add that it's sitting somewhere between young Glenrothes and Macallan (both OBs). These humble 43% do work. Finish: medium, rather sweet, a tad liqueury. Plum liqueur and a spoonful of molasses 'honey'. Comments: like this umpteenth variation on the most classic sherry theme rather a lot. Very easy whisky.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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Duich 8 yo 2016/2024 (57.2%, Dràm Mor, 1st fill PX hogshead finish, cask #30369, 230 bottles)
Right, it seems you can no longer be a self-respecting Scottish distillery unless you have your own alternative name (trade name). It's quite chic, isn't it? But anyway, enthusiasts end up knowing them all. In any case, 'Duich' is the trade name for Tamdhu. I hope it's not pronounced 'douche'. Colour: pale gold. Nose: oh, we're having a good laugh, as this is full of cellulose varnish and wood glue on the first nosing. Sawdust from fir, thuja, yew, spruce… Then it transforms into amyl diacetate, so pineapple and pear, then moves on to small herbs and roots. Wild carrots remain my favourite. A rather mad Duich on the nose, the exact opposite of the official one. With water: adds a touch of coconut milk and new leather, plus, indeed, dry PX. Mouth (neat): massive, robust, a bit spicy, very concentrated, more on citrus marmalades and jams this time. Quite a bit of ginger and turmeric from the wood. With water: almost enough to spread on our toast. Between bitter orange marmalade and candied ginger. Finish: endless, spicy, and still very marked by bitter citrus, but also the liqueurs made from these same citrus fruits. Comments: another madness from Dràm Mor. With this kind of fairly extreme drop you can't become jaded with whisky, even if it's a bit scary from time to time, like a roller coaster. Oh well, see what I'm meaning.
SGP:571 - 87 points. |
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May 8, 2024 |
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WF's Little Duos, today Glenlivet old young and recent old
The kind of game we like, especially with Glenlivet. Or Glen Grant. This brings us to that recurring cruel dilemma: should we first sample the oldest one, which is of a lower strength, or the younger one, which is of a higher strength? We have never really found the perfect answer, so let's start with this venerable 12-year-old that will serve as a prestigious aperitif...
'The Glenlivet Just Slightly Out Of Reach'. An ultra-classic advertising angle. (Print ad, 1986) |
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Smith's Glenlivet 12 yo 1958/1971 (70°proof, OB for Peter Dominic ltd., sherry wood, cask #2483 and 2484, 26 2/3 ozs)
We had tried a 1967 for Peter Dominic that had been flabbergasting (WF 93). Peter Dominic was a London wine merchant that, apparently, had been bought up by IDV (J&B, Gilbey's) so then, I think, GrandMet before this Glenlivet was bottled. The Peter Dominic company had also written 'Everybody's Wine Guide' that you can still find online. It's now become a 'non-trading company'. Colour: full gold. Nose: It's the elegance of these old Glenlivets that strikes first, featuring hints of rosewood, aged tobacco, old floor wax, and beeswax, then a burst of freshness, especially from very ripe apples and praline. A charming and subtle aroma, not unlike an old Sauternes that has already shed nearly all its sugars. Mouth: Quite dry, leaning towards the sultanas from an old tin box (a personal quirk), but with a touch of cardboard, chicken broth, a bit of salt, mint sauce (typically British!), and hints of honey or mead syrup. There's a slight metallic edge, probably some Old Bottle Effect, but the whole remains fresh and eminently enjoyable. Finish: Not as short as you might think, with a sort of broth and honey mix. A superb aftertaste of fine honeys. Comments: Typical of a great whisky from an old bottle. The 70 proof/40% ABV aren't exactly the best for keeping well for centuries, but in my humble opinion, it's still very, very good.
SGP:552 - 88 points. |
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Glenlivet 32 yo 1990/2023 'Lost in Time' (62.4%, OB for The Whisky Exchange, refill hogshead, cask #27277, 132 bottles)
I deeply like it that they would have let the distillates sing within this newish series, instead of burying them under heavy oaks and wines, as is the latest fashion in whisky. Well, I might have written this somewhere before. Colour: gold. Nose: superb tension, focusing on cider, fresh barley, and green tea. Not much else, but that's normal for such a wild strength at 32 years old. Long live the refills! With water: it stays very close to the barley, earth, dark beer, cider apple, in short, the countryside. A few crumpled mint leaves add to the mix. Mouth (neat): this wild tension returns, more lemony this time but also with honey and linden tea and coriander leaf. It pinches the tongue a bit but we like that. Yes, indeed. With water: perfect, with the diabolical duo of granny smith apple and lemon, then several honeys and honeydews. It's high precision and somewhat returns to the profile of very old Glenlivets that hadn't been fully crafted in sherry. At least, that's how it seems to me. Finish: long, always fresh, vibrant, precise, and remarkably and gloriously simple. Class, in a word. Comments: a magnificent series that in terms of profile, takes a bit of a contrarian approach to what else is happening in the competition. Well, it might not be a very 'mainstream' expression.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
(Thank you mucho, Logan !) |
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May 7, 2024 |
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WF's Little Duos, today young Cardhu
Back from Andalusia where we enjoyed some excellent PX 'seco' from Malaga (I wouldn't swap a good bottle of dry PX for a crate of 'dulce' PX), and where Cardhu appears to still be quite a strong brand, just as in France. Let's therefore try a little couple of young Cardhus...
(Magazine ad with some teaser, 1980)
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Cardhu 12 yo (40%, OB, +/-2023)
We've last tried this fairly common and lightish expression in 2017 (WF 75). Earlier 'white label' bottlings from the 1970s and 1980s (8 yo, 12 yo) were something else. Colour: light gold. Nose: it's easy to imagine why it's a long-standing success in Spain and France, this is a nice 'apéritif' nose, rather fresh, with some cut apples and a little agave syrup. Fresh pack of Fruit Loops, then even more fresh apples, also apple compote, pack of orange drops... Mouth: a little hard to understand after the pleasant nose. Light bodied. Some bitterer grasses, mashes, bonbons, oversteeped green tea, macha tea, touches of bitterer zests… I would suppose this baby really needs a few ice cubes. Finish: a little nicer, with some toasted oak, chocolate, mocha, nutmeg… Some parts of this finish remind me of modern young Macallan. Oakier aftertaste, teas and herbal teas… Comments: score almost unchanged. We'll try it again around 2019 – maybe.
SGP:241 – 74 points. |
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Cardhu 12 yo 'Wine Cask 200th Anniversary' (40%, OB, 2023)
Indeed, Cardhu is 200 this year in 2024, however, it is not immune to the affliction that has been affecting most Scottish malts for the past two or four years: the massive use of table wine (We're not talking about fortified wines like sherry, are we?). Having said that, our friends in Scotland don't stop improving their methods, so we're no longer safe from an excellent surprise. Oh and looks like this is full-maturing, or at least a 3 years-and-1-day finishing (so indeed maturation). Colour: apricot. So, red wine. Nose: loses you quick. You do get crushed berries, peonies, flavoured pipe tobacco (cherry-seasoned), but you also find butterscotch and treacle toffee, which just everyone is finding pretty nice. Including this humble little taster. Nutshell, we're between a moist fruitcake and some no-less moist gingerbread. Mouth: quite some action despite the low strength, with chocolates filled with raspberry and pear liqueur, lots of cherry, or cherry pastries, speculoos, chocolate turrón (as I mentioned we're just coming back from Spain), and a bit of coffee... In short, it's like a cocktail or premix, but it's rather well done. Finish: quite long, with these even more pronounced cherry notes, followed by a bit of thyme honey and peppermint candy. Comments: I must admit I prefer this unlikely concoction to the shy recent standard 12-year-olds. Happy 200th anniversary, Cardhu.
SGP:551 - 79 points. |
Quick bonus: we just found this one in one of the boxes… |
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Cardhu 'Gold Reserve' (40%, OB, +/-2015)
One of the first renditions of this very humble NAS. At 40% ABV and without an age statement, one shouldn't expect any of Beethoven's symphonies, right. Colour: pale gold. Nose: very close to the 12. Having them side by side is making this obvious, this is just a little more modest and immediately grassy and on green tea. I like both noses, but we know that the devil is rather lurking on our palates… Mouth: rather unexpectedly, I like this one a little better than the 12, but it's still a little weak, tea-ish, slightly bitter, with fruit peelings rather than flesh. A little white chocolate, which appeals to the child within us all. Finish: a little short, grassy, but not unpleasant. Bonbons and touches of pepper and gin in the aftertaste. Comments: we hope for a special version at a higher proof soon!
SGP:651 - 77 points. |
Well, it seems that the wine-boosted version was the favourite. I may need to see a doctor... |
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May 6, 2024 |
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What would you think of another little trip kind of around the world? |
And we set off from France, as usual…
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A Roborel de Climens 'Finition Tourbé #0001' (46%, OB, France, Cuvée Ephémère, +/-2023)
A truly unique culinary approach, yet this creativity is also part of the charm of these editions. It's a French malt, aged for 30 months in French oak barrels, then refined for 6 months in a Sauternes cask (Doisy Daëne, actually a Barsac, but Barsac is a type of Sauternes s you know), and then 12 months in a peated Islay cask. What a recipe! Colour: pale gold. Nose: of course, it's the peat that dominates, as expected. However, there is a nice balance with notes of quince from the Sauternes, as well as hints of honey and chamomile. The combination offers a somewhat camphor-and-menthol aspect which, I wonder, may stem from the peat + Sauternes mix. It's fresh, lively, even poetic. Mouth: I didn't expect it to work so well on the palate, and I wouldn't hesitate to compare it to a young Kornog Sauternes cask from quite a few years ago. Some salt, Williams pears, a bit of salted butter caramel, a more subdued honey side but with more tangerine, maybe that's the sémillon. Looks like Doisy Daëne is almost entirely sémillon. Finish: quite long, fresh, still slightly salty, this time with also some smoke and camphor, plus those pears. Comments: I wasn't too keen on the idea at first, but I absolutely love the result. Almost like molecular whisky à la elBulli. I hear it has become a museum?
SGP:653 - 88 points. |
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The English Company 11 yo 'Batch 1' (46%, OB, England, bourbon, 2466 bottles, 2022)
Some say there will soon be sixty (60) distilleries making whisky in England alone. Colour: pale gold. Nose: It's soft, with acacia honey, lemon balm, the coconut from the bourbon cask, the vanilla from the same origin, tarte tatin, pistachio... All of this is really pretty, elegant, gentle, easy... Mouth: The influence of the cask is quite pronounced, starting off very well with apple, beeswax, and fresh mint, but then becoming a bit more tart, with notes of peach skin, cherry stems, nutmeg, white pepper... Finish: medium length, balanced between woody and yellow fruits and honey notes. Grapefruit in the aftertaste. Comments: It's really well done, it's just a pity that the woody notes are a bit too pronounced, like in an overly steeped, very good tea.
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
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The Oxford Artisan Distillery 2019/2023 (54.5%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Collective #1 The Pioneers, rye, England, hogshead, cask #21)
We've already tried some excellent rye from Oxford. Colour: white wine. Nose: right, cereals, rye, wormwood, fennel, chalk and old-school anise-driven Eastern-European 'Kräuter Likör'. Some lamp oil too, paraffin oil… There's something dry and less bready than we would have expected. With water: bowls and bowls of caraway and cumin. Shall we call it aquavity? Mouth (neat): anise bread, pine needles, varnish and paint, bitter herbs… And Dantziger Goldwasser. Do you know that dazzling liqueur? With water: once again this very herbal side that's very dominant. More anise bread – also anis bredala as we say here. This is almost Christmas. Finish: long. Caraway, aniseed, rye bread, four and chalk. Comments: I'm not sure I'm getting everything here, but it's a mighty dram for sure.
SGP:471 - 84 points. |
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Bimber 2017/2023 'Imperial Stout Beer Finish' (56.8%, OB, England, LMDW, cask #259, 257 bottles)
In a way, for whisky, which is essentially distilled beer, finishing in beer casks could make more sense than in wine casks, right? Not too sure about my theory though... Colour: pale gold. Nose: ah there we have it, tapioca and polenta, white chocolate, rice pudding, very smooth sake, marzipan, orange... It's really amusing and pretty. Especially since I'm not sure I've ever tasted an Imperial Stout. With water: a hint of gunpowder, it's then very yeasty (baker's yeast), followed by cocoa and rather heady flowers. For example, lilies (royal ones, ha). Mouth (neat): It's really very good, just a bit strong. The unexpected freshness makes you think you could sip it like a spritz, but not at all. With water: very surprising and very good. Lots of clementines, Suze, verbena from Velay, all of that works very well. Finish: the same. Comments: the only problem is that it doesn't bring back the dark beers I used to drink when I first went to Scotland over forty years ago (yeah). Mackeson Stout for example - I used to believe it was Scottish, ha, I'm just realising it wasn't as we speak. But this slightly mad Bimber makes for a rather fantastic achievement.
SGP:652 - 88 points. |
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Filey Bay 'Porter Cask' (50%, OB, Spirit Of Yorkshire Distillery, Special Release, England, 2000 bottles, 2024)
I'm sure I never, ever tried a Porter. They say they've been using Rip Curl beer. I thought Rip Curl were rather famous for their bikinis, no? But long live co-branding, I prefer Rip Curl to Bentley or Aston (when it comes to co-branding, we're not talking cars). Colour: pale gold. Nose: once again it's a little subdued, with cocoa, wheat bran, toasted cereals, then green banana and apple. It's pretty pleasant. With water: soft, with notes of brioche, biscuit. Vanilla and honey. Mouth (neat): it works very well on the palate, more so than on the nose, it's more expressive. White and yellow fruits, peanut butter, mirabelle plum liqueur... However, its youthful character is also evident. With water: simply don't add water, or if you do, just a tiny drop. Finish: medium, with hints of cake, chalk, cocoa. Comments: it's very well done. All that's left for me is to find some Rip Curl Porter, although I doubt we can get that in France. We tend to prefer surfing.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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St. Kilian 'Rich & Smoky' (46%, OB, Germany, peated, +/-2023)
They've used some Scottish peated malt (54ppm) and matured the distillate in 70% bourbon and 30% sherry. They're using Scottish pot stills too, no Müller or Holstein (we've got nothing against Müller or Holstein, naturally). Colour: pale gold. Nose: the malt may well have lost quite a few ppms in transit, but it is still a clean, Scottish-inspired, so coastal, apple-and-lime-driven malt, with lovely medicinal, mentholated touches and the expected oysters and langoustines. Behind that, apples and peaches. Mouth: it's more on 'sweet ashes', plums, lemon and mint cordial, chalk, paprika, saffron… It's a tad soft, I believe they may have wanted to bottle this at 50% instead. Just an idea. Notes of crayons. Finish: medium, brighter, with more ashy lime and peated apples. Something like that. Seawater, manzanilla and one olive in the aftertaste. Awesome finish. Comments: it is not Port Ellen but I really like it. I really believe a few extra-watts would do it much good.
SGP:656 - 83 points. |
Good, someone tells me we've got room for a last one… |
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St. Kilian 2019/2022 'Signature Edition Eleven' (46.2. OB, Germany, 8340 bottles)
Matured in Jack Daniel's barrels (brokered by Keith Richards, I suppose). Colour: white wine. Nose: pure barley and ripe apples, plus touches of pastry dough, grist, a tiny touch of eucalyptus, sauna oil and some rather delicate peat smoke. This cannot be ex-54ppm peat, and the Jack behaved. Very nice. Mouth: simple barley eau-de-vie with some smoke and ashes. The thing is, we enjoy simple barley eau-de-vie with some smoke and ashes. As well as little plums, plasticine, salty mussels and grey pepper. Finish: rather long, very pleasant, with some crème de menthe and eucalyptus cordial, plus ashes and just ripe apples. Comments: the difficulty lies in the fact that one can't help but compare these young peated whiskies from the continent to the great whiskies of Islay. Therefore, we must try to remain 'neutral', acting as if one has never tasted peated whisky before (I know, it's really hard). In any case, I am very fond of this well-balanced St. Kilian.
SGP:555 - 85 points. |
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May 5, 2024 |
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Quickly, some cognac and armagnac
(a somewhat cursed session)
These aged wine brandies continue to win the hearts of whisky enthusiasts. Today, however, we will avoid the somewhat stereotypical verticals, especially since the common practice of storing in demijohns, although making a lot of sense, often prevents having a very precise notion of the age of these spirits. A 1960 might actually be much younger than another from 1980... unless, of course, all the data are provided by the bottlers, which is increasingly common. Anyway, we love them! But let's start with a quick little aperitif... |
Folle Blanche
(Jules Troncy, 'Traité général de viticulture', 1901) |
Oh by the way, the news this week reported that Campari has just bought the Courvoisier cognac brand for over a billion euros, while the house was previously owned by Suntory Global Spirits (formerly Beam-Suntory). That said, it's not the type of cognac we try often at Whiskyfun; we much prefer cognacs from own estates or high-quality small négociants/éleveurs. Anyway, moving on (but still, over a billion euros!) |
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ABK6 'VS' (40%, OB, Grande Champagne , +/-2023)
This is likely the youngest of the cognacs from the Abécassis/ABK6 house. Sometimes advertised as a blend by some merchants, but my bottle clearly states 'Grande Champagne'. Of course, it could still be a blend from different Grande Champagne areas. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a hint of grape stems, sultanas, vanilla, liquorice allsorts, peach skins, and a bit of cane syrup. It's quite fresh, with no detectable caramel or woodiness, and maybe there isn't any. Mouth: rather pleasant, a bit sweet, then herbaceous. A note of thick-skinned grape berry. There's some cane syrup, but unfortunately, the overall experience dips a bit afterwards and becomes somewhat weak. It lacks presence, despite a liquorice aspect. Finish: short, still a bit herbaceous, with grape berry notes, even a hint of muscat. Liquorice returns in the aftertaste. Comments: on the other hand, this very young cognac is marketed as a cocktail component. I always find this rather diminishing for an aged spirit (not the use in cocktails but making it a marketing angle). Still, it remains a very decent cognac.
SGP:451 - 77 points. |
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Giboin 2003/2024 (46.5%, OB for Passion for Whisky, Fins Bois, cask #602, 120 bottles)
A very nice estate in the Borderies, but this time it is a Fins Bois as they also own vines in that Cru. Already a nice age for a Fins Bois, these cognacs are usually 'swallowed' by the younger large-volume cognacs. But good houses are bottling some superb 'single' Fins Bois these days. Colour: deep amber. Nose: a very pretty nose, featuring brown sugar, maple syrup, dark nougat, then a blend of very ripe exotic fruits, figs, and a tiny hint of rubber, which, in reality and in this context, adds structure. There's also a bit of icy mint. Mouth: quite robust this time, with a mix of spices, caraway, then that famous dark nougat, and notes of black tea leading to a fairly pronounced woodiness. Roasted almonds and chestnuts too. Finish: rather long, with a bit of glue, a slight bitterness that suits it well (still that black tea, some pronounced pepper) and chocolate stuffed with orange jelly in the aftertaste. Yes, in the Dalmore style, if you will. Comments: The woodiness is quite prominent but reasonable in this somewhat rustic yet very high-quality cognac. To take on a picnic?
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
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Domaine d'Espérance 2003/2024 (48.4%, Grape of The Art, Bas-aramagnac, cask #60, 257 bottles)
100% baco hybrid here. The domain is located in Mauvezin-d'Armagnac, just east of Labastide while we've already had a rather grand official Espérance 2001 earlier in February (WF 90). So, there's hope (oh, good one S.! Pff…) Colour: gold. Nose: the absolute opposite of the Giboin cognac, with lots of fresh orchard fruits, not necessarily all fully ripe but this adds even more complexity. 'Of course' there are mirabelles, apples, nectarines, apricots... Then, I find plenty of notes from old agricole rum, especially the floral aspect (ylang-ylang). In the end, we find those wonderful sweet yet dry white wines (you see what I mean) from the South-West of France, like Jurançon moelleux. Mouth: nice tension on slightly salty apple at the start, with a lovely acidity, (this time it's a dry Jurançon!) and powerful honey, like oak honeydew. Nougatine then adds some roundness, followed by sweet liquorice. Still maintaining a very nice tension in the background, this Armagnac can be enjoyed like a wine (but in smaller quantities, don't get me wrong). Finish: long, beautiful, sweeter, balanced, driven by liquorice and honey. Comments: extremely good.
SGP:641 - 90 points. |
Amusingly, this Armagnac was smoother and more civilised than the previous cognac. Let's continue… |
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Domaine de Poutëou 21 yo 2001/2023 (48.6%, Alabat, Bas-armagnac, cask #340, 250 bottles)
We're in the very same region here, in Lannemaignan this time. These young independent bottlers really take great care with their labels and are not afraid to break the mould, making them closer to the new wave vintners. Honestly, it's fantastic; traditional dressings in Scotland, France, or elsewhere can sometimes be so dull and formulaic they could make a brick cry. Colour: amber. Nose: leans towards caramel, fudge, nougat, popcorn, maple syrup, pancake sauce, then quince jelly, peppermint, cider, followed by dandelions, lilies, wisteria (mine are in bloom at WF Towers, forcing me to close my windows each time I taste, it's that powerful. Really.) Then again touches of agricole rum. A very pretty nose, classic and balanced, without harshness. Mouth: the slight roughness of the Armagnac country adds structure to this avalanche of citrus and, I insist heavily, agricole rum. I swear, there's a Neisson-like aspect! Slight varnish, bananas, liquorice, Earl Grey. Finish: the same. A magnificent finale, both soft and taut, very moreish. They should really make magnums (ha). Comments: it's also true that we are at the heart of where it's delightful.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
We're heading back to the Cognac region... |
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Godet 24 yo 1999/2024 (47.1%, OB, Petite champagne, single cask, Spring 2024 Edition)
100% ugni blanc. It is said that the Godet house is the second oldest in all of Cognac, founded in 1588 in La Rochelle (rugby and sailing fans ahoy). They therefore surpass Bowmore, Glenturret, and Littlemill simultaneously in this regard. For a bit of trivia, the French word 'godet' can also be translated as 'wee dram' in Scottish. Colour: brilliant gold. Nose: starts with wood polish and dandelion flowers, then ripe peaches and quince jelly, followed by acacia and elderflower, then meadow honeys and nectars, and finally a twenty-year-old Sauternes from a balanced vintage. Add a bit of maple syrup and orgeat, and you have a nose that is quite compact—in the sense of being coherent—and rather magnificent. Mouth: the wood tickles immediately but is followed by fresh mushrooms (not the kind of mushrooms that are a flaw), then small herbs (verbena, chocolate mint) and candied citrus. Finally, canned peach drizzled with honey adds its traditional juicy touch. Finish: medium length, more liquorice-like, with some wood spices (cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg) and a bit of clove. A slight salty hint in the aftertaste, which always adds dimension. Comments: another rather splendid offering, to a degree likely to attract whisky enthusiasts. In any case, it works for the one at the keyboard. Excellent 'wee dram'.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
It seems we are on a streak of 90s... |
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Dartigalongue 1992/2024 (46%, OB, Bas-armagnac)
This one was just bottled in April by the famous house from Nogaro in the Gers. Colour: copper. Nose: it's a more traditional armagnac, with more chocolate, pipe tobacco, coffee, marmalade, prunes, darjeeling, rancio, old Maury, PX, old vintage Port, a little wood smoke, morels, beef bouillon… To be honest this is almost immediate post-WW2 Glenlivet. Hope I'm not ruffling any feathers here. Mouth: exactly. Very old-school, oak-forward (no flaw, a proper style), full of black tea, bitter chocolate, coffee-schnapps (you choose the schnapps), sloe spirit, umami sauce, old stout, sorrel soup, plus indeed those mushrooms. Probably the style that many Scots have tried, sometimes successfully, to recreate by using very active sherry casks. Finish: it is at this stage that the difference becomes very marked, with a rustic and very grapey side characteristic of these very traditional Armagnacs. Wood is very present in the aftertaste, but I insist, it's a style, not a flaw. Comments: so, a Speyside from Gers or an Armagnac from Speyside? Alright, let's stick to the label. The score won't surprise you…
SGP:371 - 90 points. |
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Lhéraud 'Lot 70/23' (51.9%, Le Gus't, Petite champagne, 178 bottles)
Well, the very Macallany Lhéraud 78/23 by Le Gus't had fetched… 90 indeed, back in March. Is this some kind of positive curse? The 90-curse? I swear I'm not making this up. Indeed this should be a 1970, great vintage in southwest France. Ah, Latour '70! Colour: golden amber. Nose: It leans closer to old bourbons, with vanilla and aged varnish, then a whopping fifty tonnes of mirabelles, and perhaps even a hint of mirabelle brandy. This aspect is really astonishing but of course, if you love mirabelle as much as I do, you'll be in heaven. Quite a bit of praline as well. With water: it becomes a bit more herbaceous, more on fruit peels, even wine lees. Mouth (neat): a lot of stewed fruits, still with mirabelles, as well as apples and pears, quince, nougat, marzipan with kirsch, and always a bit of varnish. Bergamot too. There are people who despise bergamot but I will never understand them; I adore bergamot. Swiss-style apricot brandy. With water: this time it stays fruity, but you'll have to settle for a drop or two of water. Finish: long, quite green, herbaceous. It's like a young cognac! Green pepper. Comments: this one, excellent though it is, gave me more trouble. It must be me... It remains a great old cognac. That said, it relates to the vintage effect; I had tasted some 1970 Pauillacs which, indeed, took a long time to shed their harsh and closed side.
SGP:571 - 87 points. |
Let's move on to the era of The Doors, Hendrix, Janis Joplin, Léo Ferré, Jacques Brel... |
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Arbellot de Vacqueur 'Lot No.67' (52.4%, Through the Grapevine, LMDW, Bons Bois, 2023)
A little Cognac house I had never heard of before, but then again, I am probably to Cognac what Donald trump is to the clavichord. Useless. Colour: copper amber. Nose: varnish, preserved peaches, acacia honey, hessian, camphor, eucalyptus. With water: sublime earthiness. Visiting an old temple in Nepal, an old wine cellar in Burgundy, a mushroom farm in the Loire Valley, a fir forest in Scandinavia... Mouth (neat): a marvellous earthy and phenolic character, packed with mushrooms, glue, acetone, varnish, even sweet vinegar, mango brandy (a very special thing), olive oil... It has gone wild and we love that. With water: magnificent. Sandalwood and cedar, old cigars, earth and wet moss... Finish: medium length, heavily leaning towards moss, algae, and roots. Comments: the only problem is that it is almost impossible to dilute them properly. Unlike most whiskies and some rums, these spirits tend to 'snap' as soon as you add just one drop of water too many—a kind of threshold effect. That said, we totally love this very earthy 1967 Arbellot de Vacqueur. And we have overcome the Indian sign...
SGP:462 - 91 points. |
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Domaine de Baraillon 1963/2023 (45%, OB, Bas-armagnac)
More from the fauve sands. This is a tirage from October 2023. I've nosed it before and I believe it is an unusual Baraillon. Colour: copper. Nose: It's very 'cooked' on the nose, almost like a fruit sauce with prunes and perhaps red wine, maybe Madiran since we're in the region. Indeed, it's very 'tannat', with a gamey edge. Quite astonishing, it also brings to mind a Cahors (Cahors was very heavily hit by hail three days ago—sending courage their way!) Behind all this are some wild herbs and, frankly, garlic cep mushrooms. Lautrec garlic is the best. We're truly in the region; only the duck breasts and foie gras are missing. Mouth: pronounced wood, mint, very dark chocolate, substantial pepper, unsweetened coffee, game, cloves, dried parsley... And a magnum of the most extreme red Madirans. I recommend Château d'Aydie; it's inexpensive and superb, but it needs time in the cellar. In any case, we have a Baraillon that is truly unlike any other. Finish: it begins to recover but it's a bit late. Still a lot of bitter chocolate, barely saved by Seville oranges and strong mint. Comments: what an unusual Baraillon...
SGP:271 - 85 points. |
One last one... Much older... |
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François Voyer 'Lot 28 Le Sourire' (41%, Malternative Belgium, Grande champagne, demi-john, 2023)
It seems this demijohn was bottled on Belgian National Day, which, to my great surprise, does not coincide with the International Day of Shrimp Croquettes (I.D.S.C.). Note that this Cognac was distilled 95 years ago, the year one of our heroes Horace Silver was born. Colour: copper gold. Nose: what splendour! We do not know the age of this Cognac, at least not when it was transferred to the demijohn, but the person who oversaw this process must surely have been a genius. Incredible ancient peach liqueur, Atlas honey (the best in the world), argan oil, very old green Chartreuse, similar Bénédictine, precious figs, saffron cream... But what splendour indeed! Mouth: one might have thought it would be a bit fragile on the palate, but not at all. Incredible citrus and small aromatic herbs, a hundred different honeys, three drops of orange juice, sweet woodruff syrup, peach liqueur again and again, a bit of sweet mint... Finish: yes, and it's truly regrettable. But what follows the finish of a great cognac is always a great cognac (please cut the crap, S.) Comments: unbelievable. 1928, that's when The Kellogg–Briand Pact was signed in Paris, it was the first treaty which outlawed 'aggressive war'. No comment.
SGP:551 - 93 points. |
Yes, I've noticed that we've ended up doing this session vertically. We just can't help it, is it serious, Herr doctor? |
(With thanks to the Whisky Kingdom and other friends) |
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