NOTCH COLLAR SIZE VARIATIONS CHART B2. Same as B1, except stand measurement is higher. Shift also changes 1/8” in all sizes. Collar stand 1-1/4 1-1/4 1-1/4 1-1/4 Collar fall 1-3/4 1-7/8 2 2-1/2 Collar width 3 3-1/8 3-1/4 3-3/4 Shift 1/2 5/8 3/4  7/8C. Use the following chart when break point on single-Breasted jacket changes due to styling; e.g., breakpoint 2” above waistline requires 5/16” shift in collar, etc. D. Use the following chart when breakpoint on double-breasted jacket changes due to styling; e.g., breakpoint 2” above waistline requires 5/16” shift in collar, etc.Measurement according to your design Example: collar stand = 1.1/8” Collar fall = 1.5/8” Collar width = 1.3/4” Shift = 1/2 Use notch collar variation chart A = waist at center front B = position of first button B to C = 3/4 for extension C = break point = shoulder neck point D to E – collar stand Connect and extend C to E to establish roll line E to F = back neck measurement G = roll line at neck Extend G to H with straight line neckline as a guide G to H is a straight line Square off point I to H for lapel widthConnect H to C with hip curve ruler deeper curve toward C Square off from point F F to K = shifting amount (use variation size chart) K to J = collar standL = deepest section of neck Connect J to L M to N = back neck measurement Square from N N to P = collar stand P to O = collar fall N to O = collar widthH to Q =length of notch Q to R = length and angle according to design Square off O to S S = extended line from shoulder Connect R to S with a straight line Blend in S to finish color line Blend in at point E to finish roll line

 

{Credit}Masaaki Kawashima’s Buy this book from Amazon

Fundamentals of Men’s Fashion Design: A Guide to Tailored Clothes