Diamond Shapes and Cut

History of the various shapes

At the Middle Ages, they cut only the outsides faces of a stone. They levelled the faces. This method was very practised by the Hindus.

In 1919, Tolkowsky published the ideal proportions of a diamond. This cut counted 58 facets: the table, 32 facets between the table and the girdle and 24 facets between the girdle and the culet. This cut is regarded as the base of the modern cut.

In 1925, Johnson and Roesch published the proportions of another cut which did not have much success. This cut was called « ideal brilliant ».

In 1939, Eppler invented the cut « fine practice » which approached that of Tolkowsky.

In 1951, Parker invented a new cut which had the characteristic to have a very large spread out table.

In 1963, discovered « Princess » cut which comprises 74 facets.

In 1965, discovered « high lights » cut which comprises 146 facets.

In 1966, Tillander published the standards of the Scandinavian standart. This nomenclature is used as a basis for the modern cut.

In 1970, discovered « Royal 144 » cut which comprises 144 facets.

In 1978, IDC (International Diamond Council) defines the standards which gives to diamond the most refraction.

History of the brilliant cut

Old cuts

XVIIIe century
XVIIIe century
XIXe century
XIXe century
Beginning of XXe century
XXe century

Recent cuts

Half cuts (1930)
Half cuts
Modern cut
Modern cut

Small stones

8/8
8/8 Diamond
16/16 or swiss-cut
16/16 Diamond

Brilliant and Fancy Cut

Oval
Oval Diamond
Pear
Pear Diamond
Marquise
Marquise Diamond

Heart
Heart Diamond
Royal cut
Royal cut

Step cut

Emerald
Emerald Diamond
Baguette
Baguette Diamond

Rose cut

Cross Rose (Dutch)
Cross Rose (Dutch) Diamond
Simple Rose
Simple Rose Diamond

Antwerp Rose
Antwerp Rose Diamond
Shield
Shield Diamond

The principal shapes of diamond

Round Brilliant Diamond
Princess Diamond
Oval Diamond
Cushion Diamond
Pear Diamond
Radiant Diamond

Marquise Diamond
Heart Diamond
Emerald Diamond
Asscher Diamond
Trillion Diamond

Videos of the principal shapes of diamond


The number of facets of the principal shapes

CUT NAME CROWN GIRDLE PAVILION TOTAL
Brilliant 1 table, 8 bezels, 8 stars and 16 upper girdle   8 pavilions and 16 lower girdle 57 facets
Emerald 25 facets 8 facets 24 facets 57 facets
Marquise 33 facets   22 facets 55 facets
Oval 33 facets   22 facets 55 facets
Pear 33 facets   23 facets 56 facets
Radiant 25 facets 8 facets 37 facets 70 facets
Triangle 7 facets 3 facets 9 facets 19 facets
Baguette 9 facets 4 facets 12 facets 25 facets
16/16 1 table, 16 facets   16 facets 33 facets
8/8 1 table, 8 facets   8 facets 17 facets


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